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piplW hen you e the clothes you wear or fabric you u for curtains or bedsheet,have you noticed something different in them? Some fabrics are thick, others are thin, some are plain, others have lf-design and some are stiff and others limp. If you examine your clothes, you will find that your inner clothes or underwear are very different from outer clothes. The differences in fabrics are becau of their construction. You have already learnt in the previous lessons that the fibers and yarns affect the properties, appearance, and wearability of the fabric. Similarly,fabric construction methods also influence the appearance, properties and perfor-mance of the fabric. In this lesson you will learn about this aspect of fabrics.
After reading this lesson you will be able to:
describe briefly the methods of fabric construction;
explain the process of weaving and knitting;
describe types of basic weaves; distinguish between woven and knitted fabrics.
In the earlier lesson you have learnt about fibres and yarns but still when you are asked about the meaning of textiles you think of fabrics, clothes or garments.Actually, in order to u the fibers and yarns for apparel and houhold textiles and other end us, there is a need to convert them into a fabric.
Fabric is any piece of cloth
What do you e when you go to the market? The shops are full of different types of fabrics. Let us now e how a fabric is made or constructed.
FABRIC CONSTRUCTION
How is fabric constructed?
Fabrics can be made or constructed by using a number of techniques as given below:
i)W eaving ii)Knitting
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iii)Non-woven iv)Braided
v)Nets vi)Laces
Now, let us enumerate some of the im-
portant features of the techniques.
i)Weaving : Weaving is the most
commonly ud method of fabric
construction. You must have en a
chatai being made. Weaving is simi-george strait
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lar to it, where two ts of yarns are
interlaced with one another at right
angles. Weaving gives a firm fabric.
Have you heard of fabrics like pop-
lin, denim and cambric? Yes, the
are available in all the cloth shops and
you must have ud them to make
your garments.
ii)Knitting : When you knit a
sweater, there is normally one ball
of yarn which is interlooped to get
a fabric. This technique is called
jyaknitting and it gives a lot of stretch
and easy-care properties to fab-
ric. Knits are mainly ud for ho-
siery . Knit fabrics are specially u-
ful for garments like underwear,
T-shirts, socks etc.
iii)
Non-Woven: The fabrics are
made directly from fibers without
moveupweaving or knitting. Fibers are held together by mechanical forces, gum or heat.Namada is a traditional Kashmiri piece of a non-woven type of fabric.iv)Braided Fabrics: Braided fabrics are created in a fashion similar to braiding
of hair. The fabrics are mainly ud to make trimmings and shoe laces.poor
Fig. 24.1: Weaving Fig. 24.2: Knitting Fig. 24.3: Braided Fabric
Activity: 24.1
braided, net and lace fabrics. A trip to your neighbourhood tailor will
be very helpful in collecting the samples. Stick the samples in your record book and note down the obrvations as per the example. This exerci
Q1.Identify the following methods of fabric construction:
i)ii).............................................
.........................................iii)iv)
............................................. .................................................In weaving two ts of yarns are interlaced at right angle to one another in an established quence.
Have you ever en a ‘charpai’ being made? On the frame, first one rope is taken and interlooped on two parallel edges and after that a cond rope is interlaced perpendicular to it going once over the rope and once under it. This kind of an interlacement gives an even check effect and the weave is quite firm.
The weaving of a fabric is also done in a similar way, except for the fact that yarns are ud for interlacing and a loom is ud to hold the thread instead of a frame. There are some terms which are frequently ud, you e them on the lable also.
Selvedge: When you examine a fabric, you e two long finished edges, one on each side along the length of the fabric. The edges are called lvedge and give strength to the edges which is important in further processing of the fabric.Fig. 24.6Fig. 24.7
Fig. 24.8Fig. 24.9
Fig. 24.10 Common terms in textiles
Warp: They are the yarns along the length of the fabrics or parallel to the l-vedge. They are also called ends.
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Fig. 24.11: Loom showing different parts A – harness B – warp C –
shuttle D – reed E – thread count
24.2.1 Process of Weaving
The weaving operation can be compared to ‘chatai’ making. When a chatai is made, some ropes are held parallel to one another on a frame. The chatai maker lifts some strands with his fingers and pass another rope perpendicular to it and pushes it down with a blunt knife to make a compact chatai.
Warp
Weft Selvedge
