Couture Sewing Technique
Claire B.Shaeffer
Printed in the United States of America,2001
The book was originally published in hardcover in 1993 by The Taunton Press,Inc.
柳林风声下载
Chapter4.Edge Finishes
Hems,Facings and Bindings
U nless finished in some way, the edges of a garment ravel and look incomplete. The edges—the neckline; the vertical front edges of jackets, coats and many blous; jackets and coats—can be finished in conspicuously or they can become distinctive, decorative elements of the design.Three finishes are ud extensively in couture:hems, facings and bindings.
The choice of edge finish depends on many things—the shape of the edge being finished; its position on the garment; the type, design and fabric of the garment; current fashion trends; and the preferences of the individual wearer and the designer. For example, if the bottom edge of a dress is straight, it migh
t be completed with a hem, a facing or a binding. But if this edges is asymmetrical, curved, scalloped or otherwi unusually shaped, it will need to be finished with a facing. Even when the edge is visually the same on the neckline and hem, the two different edges are likely to require slightly different finishes to accommodate the curve at the neckline and the weight of the fabric at the hem. And although it’s obvious that a tailored garment would require very different finishing from an evening gown, even similar designs vorked in dissimilar fabrics would dictate finishes suitable for each fabric.
Although hems, facings and bindings are all edge finishes, each has a slightly different function. Hems are generally ud on the lower edges of a garment or garment ction (for example, a sleeve) and many help the garment hang attractively by adding weight to the edge. Facings, on the other hand, are applied to the upper and vertical edges of a garments. Bindings can be ud on upper, lower or vertical edges, but they’re ud most often to replace facings rather than hems.
Facings can be cut as parate ctions and wn to the garment to finish curved or shaped edges. Or, when ud on edges that are straight or only slightly curved, they can be nothing more than a wide hem allowance, in which ca they’re called extended facings. Both hems and facings are visible on only one side—usually the underside—of the garment. Bindings, by contrast, are parate
strips of fabric that enca the garment edge and finish both sides of the garment attractively.
Becau in couture the cost of labor and materials takes a back at to the desired results, edges are not always finished with the simplest method or the one most often ud in ready-to-wear construction or home wing. Whatever the finishing method, hems, facings and bindings can be wn entirely by hand or machine work.. The hand work visible on the finished product, however, is only a fraction of the hand work ud to finish the edges of the traditional couture garment.springfestival
propo用法FACINGS
Facings, like hems, are designed to finish the edge of the garment. Unlike hems, which hang free of the body and affect the garment’s hang more than its overall shape, faced edges frequently fit the body’s curves and subtly affect the garment’s silhouette. Ud on garment openings, curved edges and shaped edges like jacket lapels, facings contribute significantly to an overall impression of a well-constructed garment.qiyi
There are three types of facings: extended, shaped and bias. Two of the—shaped and bias facings—are cut parately from the garment and can be wn from lf-fabric or lightweight lining fabrics. The extended facing is cut as an extension of the garment ction like a plain hem and is, of
policeofficercour, lf-fabric.portrait是什么意思
妈的用英语怎么说The extended facing is nothing more than a 1/2-in. to 2-in. hem and is wn exactly like a plain hem (e pp. 63-64). When the garment edge is on the length-wi grain, the extended facing duplicates the shape and grain of the edge it faces. But when the edge is slanted on a bias or has a slight curve, the facing can’t duplicate the grain and may have to be ead, stretched or clipped to fit the edge smoothly.
The extended facing is ud extensively in couture becau the folded edge of this facing is flatter and more supple than the amed edges of shaped and bias facings and conquently drapes better. Edges with extended facings are generally interfaced and stabilized so that they maintain their original shape for the life of the garment.
As its name suggests, the shaped facing is cut to duplicate the shape of the edge it faces and ususlly duplicates the grain as well. This facing is often ud on necklines and on edges intended to have a crisp, constructed look, and it’s always ud on intricately shaped edges like a scalloped hem.
The bias facing is a strip cut on the true bias. Becau it doesn’t duplicate the grain of the edge it faces, this facing must itlf be shaped to fit the edge. Bias facings are made from lightweight fabrics and produce narrow, inconspicuous facings.
In cousture, more than one type of facing is often ud on a single garment or even on a single
edge. The pink gazar dress shown above, for example, has extended facings on the front neckline and back opening with shaped facings on the front neckline and back opening with shaped facings on the back neckline. Similarly, the jacker on p.60 has a shaped facing on the upper half of the front
edge and an extended facing on the lower half of this edge.
Before applying any kind of facing, examine the garment’s fit to determine whether the edge needs to be help in or stabilized with a stay tape (e pp. 49-50) or interfaced (e p. 68). Once you’ve handled the edge as required, then you can proceed to apply the facing you’ve chon.
SHAPED FACINGS
Shaped facings can be applied by hand or by machine. Both types of applications are ud in couture, while only machine applications are ud in resdy-to-wear. The machine application is, of cour, faster, but it’s sometimes more difficult to shape the facing so that it fits smoothly, and the amline is sometimes visible at the garment edge. The instructions below are for applying the facing by hand. (For directions on applying shaped facings by machine, refer to your favorite wing manual.)
The directions focus on neckline facings becau they’re most frequently ud in couture workrooms. However, the directions can be applied to other edges such as waistbands, armholes, applied pockets, collars and cuffs, and they can be adapted for garment linings. The facing can be made any time after the neck edge is established, the amline or foldline is thread-traced, and the edge is interfaced or stabilized appropriately for the design.
Facings can be cut from the original garment pattern if the edge wasn’t changed during the fitting process, or the garment itlf can rve as a pattern. When the garment is ud as a pattern, the thread-traced neckline can be ud to establish a corresponding stitching line on the facing. A finished neckline can also be ud as a guide when you’re applying the facing by hand.
Neck facings can be cut in veral shapes. Two of the most popular are the traditional circlular shape, which measures an even distance all around from the edge, and a rectangular shape, which extends into the armscye ams. When the larger shape is ud, the facing edges can be anchored in the amlines, holding them smooth and in place. The facing shadow may also be less obtrusive with the larger shape, depending on the design. The obvious disadvantage of this facing is the
additional fabric introduced into the shoulder area, which may give the garment a bulky appearance.
英语专业大学排名One solution for reducing some of this bulk is to relocate the amlines 1/2 in. to 1 in. from their original positions. In couture, the ams on facings are not always aligned with the corresponding garment amlines, as they are in ready-to-wear and home wing.
The directions that follow are for cutting and applying the less familiar rectangular facing. They can easily be adapted for a circular facing, Start by lecting some scraps from your garment fabric for the front and back facings unless the fabric is bulky or heavy, in which ca u a lighter, firmly woven material for the facings. Rectangular pieces of cloth are preferable becau they make it easier to identify the grainlines. If you’re cutting a rectangular facing for a garment with a high, round neckline with a closre in the back, begin with one large rectangle about 16 in. wide by 7 in. long for the front facing and two smaller ones about 8 in. wide by 6 in. long for the back facings.
When applying the facing by hand, it’s easier to finish the garment edge before making the facing so that you can u the finished, do so before starting the facing and clip the free edge of the interfacing as needed, to make it lie flat. Trim the am allowance around the garment neck to 3/4 in. andfold it to the wrong side. Baste a generous 1/5 in. from the edge. To minimize the am allowance’s tendency to curl around the neck, snip shallow cuts into the raw edge every inch or so as needed to make the neckline am allowance lie flat(as shown on p.74).
With the wrong side up, place the neckline over a pressing cushion and press just the neckline edge. With your fingers, gently try to flatten the raw edge. If necessary, trim the edge further to 3/8 in. for firmly woven fabrics and 1/2 in. for less stabble fabrics. If the am allowance still doesn’t lie flat, clip the raw edge with short, cloly spaced snips up to, but not through the basting stitches around the neck edge. U a loo catchstitch to w the edge of the am allowance to the underlining or interfacing. If the garment has neither, w carefully so the stitches do not show on the right side of t
he garment.
Cut a rectangle for each ction to be faced. Before proceeding, decide whether relacating the
shoulder ams will redistribute the bulk. After relacating the am, if you decide to do so, begin with wrong sides together, and match and pin the grainlines together at the center front of the garment and its facing. Then, holding the garment neckline curved, as it will be when worn, smooth the facing in place, pinning as you go. When you get to the shoulder ams, smooth the front facing over the ams so that the am allowances are flat. Pin and then trim away the excess at the shoulder ams and at the neck edgd, leaving 1/2-in. am allowances on the facing, as shown above.
Pin the back facing(s) in place. At the shoulder ams,trim and then turn the raw edges under, then pin and slip-baste, as shown above. At this point, you can machine-stitch the shoulder ams. At the neckline, trim away the excess, leaving a 1/2-in. am allowance.Turn under the raw edge so the facing is 1/16 in. to 1/4 in. below the edge of the neckline and does not expo the clips on the garment’s am allowance. If necessary, clip the edge of the facing at intervals as needed to make it turn under smoothly and pin it in place. On edges with shallow curves, you can turn back the neck edge of the facing in place and press lightly. Using a fell stitch or slipstitch, w the facing to the nec
k edge and join the shoulder ams if they weren’t machine-stitched. Remove the bastings and press lightly.
get upBIAS FACINGS
pledge
A bias facing is a narrow strip of fabric cut on the true bias that’s shaped, rather than cut, to duplicate the edge it faces. Well adapted to garments with soft edges, this facing is frequently ud on blous and dress and on lightweight silk and cotton fabrics. In couture work-rooms, most bias facings are applied by hand. Generally, lf-fabric is ud if the garment is wn from light-weight fabric, but if the fabric is heavy, lining material can be ud instead.
Bias facings are narrower and less conspicuous than shaped facings, and since they require less fabric, they’re both more comfortable to wear next to the skin and more economical to w. There are two disadvantages to the facings, however. When a bias facing is applied, the garment edge is rarely interfaced and may not be as smooth. And since the bias facing is usually slipstitched to the garment, it’s sometimes difficult to prevent the stitches from showing on the outside of the garment.
Most bias facings are finished so they’re about 1/2 in. wide, but they can be as narrow as 1/4 in. on a jewel neckline and as wide as 2 in. at the waist of a skirt. Generally, the wider the bias facing, the mo
re difficult it is to shape it to a curved edge.
Before applying a bias facing, finish the garment edge. Fold the am allowance to the wrong side and baste 1/8 in. to 1/4 in. from the edge. Clip as needed to make the edge lie flat. With the wrong side up, press the edge.
