Combined Dyeing and Resin Finishing of Wool/Visco and Cotton/Wool Blends
N.A.Ibrahim
National Rearch Center,Textile Rearch Division,Dokki,Cairo,Egypt
E.Allam,M.B.EL-Hosamy,M.R.EL-Zairy,and W.EL-Zairy
Faculty of Applied Arts,Helwan University,Cairo,Egypt
The objective of this study is to establish a single-stage pro-cess for anionic dyeing and easy-care finishing of wool/visco (60/40)and cotton/wool (70/30)blended fabrics.Optimum con-ditions for maximizing dyeability and achieving high resiliency are:Fixapret 1ECO (50g/L),triethanolamine hydrochloride (20g/L),ammonium persulfate (7.5g/L)at 160 C for 3min.The extent of improvement in both the depth of shade and easy-care properties is determined by the nature of substrate and follows the descending order wool/visco>cotton/wool.On the other hand,the extent of dye fixation and the change in fast-ness properties of the obtained dyeings are determined by the class of dyestuff.
十二孔陶笛Keywords Anionic dyeing;Blend;Cellulo;Easy care;One-step;Wool
1.INTRODUCTION
There are many reasons for developing blends,such as economy,durability,physical properties,color,appear-ance,and quick respon.Wool =cellulosic blends have become increasingly important.The wool component con-tributes warmth,resilience,fullness of hand,and added value while the cellulosic component provides coolness,comfort,and favorable market share,thereby providing suitable trans-asonal apparel.In recent years,there have been considerable efforts to enhance both the performance and dyeing properties of the wool =visco and cotton =wool blends to increa their end us as well as to expand their market share [1–11].
The prent work was undertaken with a view to 1)establish a single-stage process for union dyeing,using anionic dyestuffs,and easy-care finishing,using different finishing formulations,of wool =visco and cotton =wool
blends;2)arch for the proper conditions for attaining high-performance properties,as well as 3)clarify and understand the mode of interaction among reactants,dye-stuffs,and the ud substrates.2.EXPERIMENTAL
2.1.Materials
The specifications of the mill-scoured and bleached blended fabrics ud in the experiments are give
旋转对称n in Table 1.
The finishing agent ud was Fixapret 1ECO (modified dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea,crosslinker for the low-formaldehyde easy-care finishing,BASF).Nekanil 1910(a nonionic alkylphenol-polyglycol ether detergent,BASF)was ud.
Commercial dyestuffs were ud,namely Hostalane 1Brill,Blue ER (reactive-Clariant),Alphanole 1Fast Red R 200(acid-Clariant),and Optisal 1Brill.Yellow 5GL (direct-Clariant)was ud without further purification.All other chemicals ,triethanolamine hydro-chloride,ammonium persulfate,(NH 4)2S 2O 8,polyethylene glycol,PEG-400,and acetic acid were of laboratory reagent grade.
2.2.Methods
2.2.1.Simultaneous Anionic Dyeing and Easy-Care
Finishing
The blended fabric samples were padded twice through a solution containing Fixapret ECO (0–75g =L),TEA.HCl (0–30g =L),(NH 4)2S 2O 8(2.5–10g =L),anionic dye (20g =L),and nonionic wetting age
nt (2g =L)along with acetic acid (1mL =L)to 70%wet pickup.After being dried at 100 C =3min,the fabrics were thermofixed at 160 C =3min,washed thoroughly,soaped,rind,and finally dried.Typical formulations ud in the treatments as well as fix-ing conditions are given in the text.
Address correspondence to N.A.Ibrahim,National Rearch Center,Textile Rearch Division,Dokki,Cairo,Egypt.E-mail:
Polymer-Plastics Technology and Engineering ,45:455–462,2006Copyright #Taylor &Francis Group,LLC ISSN:0360-2559print/1525-6111online DOI:
10.1080/03602550600553572
2.2.2.Measurements
小仓鼠吃什么东西Nitrogen content was determined according to the Kjeldahl method.The dry wrinkle recovery angle(WRA) was evaluated using the iron recovery apparatus(type FF-07,Metrimpex).
The color strength,K=S,of the dyed=finished fabric samples were measured at the wavelength of maximum absorbance using an automatic filter spectrophotometer, and calculated by the Kubelka-Munk equation[12]:
K=S¼ð1ÀRÞ2
2R
where K is the absorption coefficient,S is the scattering coefficient,and R is the reflectance of the dyed=finished fabric samples at the wavelength of maximum absorption. The higher the K=S value,the greater the dye receptivity of the fabric.
Evaluation of washing,rubbing,and perspiration fast-ness properties were performed according to AATCC test methods:(61-1972),(8-1972),and(15-1973),respectively.
3.RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
大学生公租房
Since the primary objective of this work was to investigate the technical feasibility of carrying out anionic dyeing and easy-care finishing of wool=visco and cotton=wool blended fabrics in one step,attempts have been made to modify the finishing formulations via incorporation of certain additives, i.e.,TEA.HCl and PEG-400,as well as to u an eco-friendly finishing Fixapret ECO,with an acidic oxidation ,(NH4)2S2O8,to arch for the proper fixation conditions for attaining high-performance properties.Vari-ables studied include amine concentration,finishing agent concentration,catalyst concentration,thermofixation time and temperature,PEG-400concentration,as well as type of anionic ,acid,reactive,or direct.Results obtained along with their appropriate discussion follow.
小螃蟹儿歌
3.1.TEA.HCl Concentration
To start with,the single-step process for acid dyeing and easy-care finishing of the blended fabrics under investi-gation was performed in the prence of different TEA.HCl concentrations(0–30g=L).
Figure1shows the effect of TEA.HCl concentration on the extent of dyeing,expresd as K=S values.For a given t of dyeing and finishing conditions,it is clear that increasing TEA.HCl concentrations up to20g=L in the fin-ishing formulation results in an improvement in the K=S values,r
egardless of the treated substrate.The enhance-ment in K=S values is a direct conquence of introducing tertiary aion groups onto the cellulo component of the blended fabrics,thereby enhancing its affinity as well as its ability to pick up dye anions according to the following reactions[3,11,13–16].
ðNH4Þ2S2O8À!D2NH3þH2S2O8ð1ÞðNH4Þ2S2O8þH2O*)2NH4OHþH2S2O8ð2Þ
H2S2O8À!S2O2À8þ2Hþð3
Þ
TABLE1
Substrate Components Blending ratio Weight(g=m2)
烧烤腌肉I Cotton=woo170=3235
II Wool=visco60=4235
456N.A.IBRAHIM ET AL.
where wool-XH(XH:ÀNH2;¼NH;ÀSH,etc.) On the other hand,further increa in TEA.HCl concen-tra
,byeond20g=L,has practically no effect on the K=S values,which most probably is due to facilitating side interactions with the finishing agent,thereby giving ri to easily removable by products[Eq.(9)].
Figure1likewi reveals that the K=S value of the obtained dyeings is determined by the nature of the ,its wool content as well as the reactivity of the cellulo component[11,15],and follows the decreasing order:wool=visco>cotton=wool blend.
As far as the changes in the extent of crosslinking, expresd as%N and WRA values,as a function of TEA.HCl concentration,Figs.2and3respectively show that inclusion of TEA.HCl as a reactive additive in the dyeing=finishing formulation up to20g=L has a positive impact on both the%N(Fig.2)and WRA(Fig.3)values. This was accomplished by enhancing the extent of swell-ability and accessibility of the blended fabrics and improv-ing the extent of penetration and diffusion of the reactants within the swelled structures,thereby increasing the extent of inter crosslinking as well as modifying both the wool and cellulo ,higher%N and better resiliency[15].
A further increa in TEA.HCl concentration has no significant effect on both the%N and WRA values,regardless of the ud substrate.Obviously,the extent of improvement is determined by the nature of the substrate and follows the decreasing order:wool=visco>cotton= wool blend.
3.2.Finishing Agent Concentration
Curiously enough,Fig.4shows that as the Fixapret ECO concentration increas up to50g=L,K=S values of the obtained blended fabric samples tend to increa gradu-ally,which can be attributed to the introduction of new active ,tertiary amino groups,onto the finish=cellulo matrix,thereby improving and enhancing the extent of union acid dyeing of both the wool and cellu-losic components[Eqs.(6–8)].A further increa in finish-ing agent ,beyond50g=L,has a negative effect that can be discusd in terms of higher extent of side interaction[Eq.(9)],thereby minimizing the availability
of
free basic sites onto the finish=fabric matrix,irrespective of the substrate ud.
As regards the change in%N and WRA values as a function of Fixapret ECO concentration,it is clear
(Figs.5and6,respectively)that increasing the finishing agent concentration up to50g=L results in an increa in the extent of crosslinking,expresd as%N and WRA,fol-lowed by a slight decrea in the aforementioned properties at higher beyond50g=L,regardless of the substrate ud.The decrea in the%N and WRA values at higher ,beyond50g=L,could be attributed to1)insufficient diffusion and penetration of the reactant resin into the fabric structure,2)formation of single-ended reactions rather than intercrosslinking,3) shortage in free and accessible active sites,and=or4)for-mation of easily removable surface deposits via finishing agent-TEA.HCl side interactions.3.3.Catalyst Concentration
Figure7shows the effect of(NH4)2S2O8concentration on the extent of dyeing of the simultaneously dyed and finished blended fabric samples,expresd as K=S values. Within the range examined,it is clear that:1)increasing (NH4)2S2O8concentration up to7.5g=L brings about an improvement in the K=S values,regardless of the substrate ud,which could be discusd in terms of higher extent of fixation of the TEA.HCl onto the finish=cellulo matrix along with higher extent of protonation of the amino groups within the wool structure,thereby enhancing the extent of dye uptake as well as fixation[Eqs.(7)and(8)][11,14,17];2) further increa in(NH4),beyond 7.5g=L has practically a marginal decreasing effect on the K=S values of the treated fabric samples,which m
ay be attributed to the oxidative effect of the ud catalyst at higher concentration;and3)the extent of dyeing is determ-ined by the nature of the blend components and follows the order:wool=visco>cotton=
wool.
Figures 8and 9show that increasing the catalyst con-centration up to 7.5g =L improves the %N and WRA values of the treated fabric samples as a direct conquence of increasing the extent of protonation and formation of carbonium higher extent of crosslinking as well as fixation of the TEA.HCl and the acid dye onto the blended fabrics [Eqs.(1–8)and (10)];2)further increa in the cata
lyst concentration is accompanied by a decrea in %N (Fig.8)without affecting the WRA values (Fig.9),most probably due to side interactions among the finishing agent,TEA.HCl,and the acid dye to give water-soluble adducts easily removed by after-washing [Eq.(9)];and 3)both the %N and WRA values are governed by the nature and reactivity of the blend components.
3.4.Curing Time
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Figure 10shows that prolonging fixation time up to 5min gives ri to a gradual increa in K =S values of the
obtained dyeings,which can be discusd in terms of higher extent of modification reactions along with better dye fix-ation,and the extent of dyeing is determined by the blend components.
Within the range examined,both the %N (Fig.11)and WRA (Fig.12)values of the treated blends incread up to 3min at 160 C,but slightly decread beyond 3min.
Obviously,curing for 3min at 160 C appears appropriate for attaining better performance properties (Figs.10–12).
3.5.Curing Temperature
Figure 13shows that raising the curing temperature up to 200 C for 3min results in a gradual increa in the K =S values of the obtained dyeings as a direct conquence of improving the extent of fabric modification as well as dye fixation,and the K =S values of the treated wool =visco samples are better than that of treated cotton =wool
samples.
FIG.8.Effect of catalyst concentration on the N %of the treated fabric samples.Padding Bath Contents:Fixapret ECO (50g =L);(NH 4)2S 2O 8(2.5–10g =L);acid dye (20g =L);TEA.HCl (20g =L);Nekanil 910(2g =L);acetic acid (1m =L);drying at 100 C =3min;curing at 160 =3
最长的海峡
min.
FIG.9.Effect of catalyst concentration on the WRA of the treated fab-ric samples.Padding Bath Contents:Fixapret ECO (50g =L);(NH 4)2S 2O 8(2.5–10g =L);acid dye (20g =L);TEA.HCl (20g =L);Nekanil 910(2g =L);acetic acid (1m =L);drying at 100 C =3min;curing at 160 =3
min.
