学校代码： 10128
学 号：201121805007
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题 目：多层横机针织织物面料的开发
学生姓名：张文在
学 院：轻工与纺织学院
系 别：服装设计与工程系
专 业：服装设计与工程
班 级：服装设计与工程11-1班
指导教师：邱莉 讲师
指导教师：邱莉 讲师
二 零 一 五 年 六 月
Development of Multi-Layer Fabric on a Flat Knitting Machine
Abstract
The loop transfer technique was ud to develop the a splitable multi layer knit fabric on a computerized multi gauge flat knitting machine. The fabric consists of three layers: inner-single jery, middle-1X1 purl and, outer-single jery. By varying the loop length the multi layer knit fabric samples were produced,namely CCC-1, CCC-2 and CCC-3. Th
e above multi layer fabrics were knitted using 24s Ne cotton of combined yarn feed in feeders 3, 4, and 4 respectively. The influence of loop length on wpc,cpc and tightness factor was studied using linear regression. The water vapor and air permeability properties of the produced multi layer knit fabrics were studied using ANOVA. The change of raw material in three individual layers could be uful for the production of fabric for functional, technical, and industrial applications.
Keywords: multi layer fabric, loop length, loop transfer, permeability prope
1.INTRODUCTION
capable of manufacturing engineered fabric in two dimensional, three dimensional of bi-layer, and multilayer knit fabrics. The feature includes individual needle lection, the prences of holding down sinkers, racking, transfer, and adapted feeding devices combined with CAD. The layered fabrics are more suitable for functional and technical applications than single layer fabrics. The fabrics may be non-splitable (branching knit structure, plated fabric, spacer fabric) and splitable (bilayer,multilayer). The functional knit
ted structure of two different fabric layers bad on different textile components (hydrophobic and hydrophilic textile material) is ud to produce leisure wear, sportswear and protective clothing to improve the comfort. The paration layer is polypropylene in contact with skin, and the absorption layer will be the outside layer when cotton is ud for the knit fabric .
Garments made of plant branch structured knit fabrics facilitate the transport of sweat from the skin to the outer layer of the fabric very fast and make the wearer more comfortable. Qing Chen et al .reported that the branching knitted fabrics made from different combinations of polyester/cotton yarns with varying linear density and various knitted structure produced in rib machine improved water transport properties. The Moisture comfort characteristics of plated knitted fabric was good, reported by the authors findings from three layer plated fabric of cotton (40s), lycra (20 D) and superfine polypropylene (55 dtex/72 f) was ud as a raw material in face, middle and ground layers respectively . The applications in wearable electronics for the multilayer fabric are wider. Novel multi-functional fibers structure include three layered knit fabric embedded w
ith electronics for health monitoring. The knit fabric consists of 5% spandex and 95% polypropylene in – 1stlayer, -2nd layer compod of metal fibers to conduct electric current to embedded electronics + PCM and the 3rd layer is compod of highly hydrophilic cotton . In flat knitting, two surface (U-,V-,M-,X- and Y-shaped) and three surface layers (U-face to face, U- zigzag and X-shaped) spacer fabric were developed from hybrid glass filament and polypropylene for light weight composite applications.H Cebulla et al produced three dimensional performs like open cuboid and spherical shell using the needle parking method. The focus was in the area of individual needle lection in the machine for the production of near net-shape performs. The multi layered sandwich knit fabric of rectangular core structure (connecting layer: rib), triangular core structure (connecting layer:interlock), honeycomb core structure (connecting layer: jery combined with rib), triple face structure 1 (connecting layers are not alternated), Triple face structure 2 (connecting layers are alternated) were developed on a flat-knitting machine for technical applications .
In this direction the flat knitting machine was elected to produce splittable multi layer knit f
abric with varying loop length and loop transfer techniques. The influence of loop length on wpc, cpc and tightness factor was studied for the three individual layers in the fabric. The important breathability properties of the fabric such as water vapor permeability and air permeability were studied. The production technique ud for this fabric has wide applications such as in functional wear, technical textiles, and wearable textiles.
2.MATERIALS AND METHODS
The production of multi-layer knit fabrics such as CCC-1, CCC-2 and CCC-3 cotton yarn with the linear density of 24s Ne was fed in the knit feeder.For layered fabric development, a computerized multi gauge flat knitting machine and combined yarn feed was lected like 3, 4 and 4 respectively, shown in the Table I. Q. M. Wang and H. Hu [9] was the lected yarn feed in the range of 4 – 10 for the production of glass fiber yarn composite reinforcement on a flat knitting machine. The intermediate between integral and fully fashioned garment was produced using the “half gauging or
