BEIDAIHE兴旺造句 is a rather bizarre aside resort on the Bohai Gulf, 300km east of Beijing, which was originally patronized by European diplomats, missionaries and businessmen around the turn of the century, who can only have chon it out of homesickness. Its coastline - rocky, sparly vegetated, erratically punctuated by beaches - is reminiscent of the Mediterranean. They built villas and bungalows here, and reclined on verandahs sipping cocktails after indulging in the new bathing fad. After the Communist takeover, the village became a pleasure resort for Party bigwigs, reaching its height of popularity in the 1970s when aside trips were no longer en as decadent and revisionist. Strict rules ordered where individuals could bathe, according to their rank: West Beach was rerved for foreigners after they were let in in 1979, with guards posted to cha off Chine voyeurs interested in glimpsing their daringly bourgeois swimming costumes. The Middle Beach, demarcated by rope barriers, was rerved for Party officials, with a sandy cove - the best spot - t out for the higher ranks. Dark swimsuits were compulsory, to avoid the illusion of nudity.
The days the barriers have gone, along with the inhibitions of the urban Chine (skimpy 行严
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肝功查什么bikinis are fashionable now), and the contemporary town is a fascinating mix of the austerely communist and the gaudy kitsch of any busy aside resort. On the hill behind the beach, on leafy streets guarded by discreet soldiers, sit the villas of the Party elite. It's rumoured that every Politburo member once had a residence here, and probably many still do. All around are huge, chunky buildings, often with absurd decorative touches - Roman columns, fake totem poles, Greek porticoes - grafted onto their ponderous facades. The are work-unit hotels and sanatoriums for heroes of the people - factory workers, soldiers and the like - when they are granted the privilege of a aside holiday. On the beach, stirring revolutionary statues of lantern-jawed workers and their wives and children stand among the throngs of bathers, while on the beachfront behind them stalls ll Day-Glo swimsuits and sculptures of chickens made of shells and raffia.
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Though you still e rious men in uniforms and sunglass licking lollipops, and black Audis with tinted windows (the Party cadre car) cruising the waterfront, the days most of Beidaihe's visitors are ordinary, fun-loving tourists, usually well-heeled Beijingers. In ason, when the temperature is steady around the mid-20s Centigrade and the water w
arm, it's noisy and crowded, and a fun place to spend the day. Everyone is here simply to enjoy themlves, and you'll e the Chine looking their most relaxed
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