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Assistant Professor and Extension Fruit Specialist, Sustainable Agriculture Science Center at Alcalde, New Mexico State University.
INTRODUCTION
Annual vegetable and field crops are normally propa-gated by eds, but most perennial fruit species are propagated axually to maintain characteristics identi-cal to the mother plants and reduce the time it takes to fruit. Some species, such as grapes and pomegranates, can be propagated with cuttings, while others are most often propagated by grafting two distinct genotypes together. There are always two parts for grafting: the scion, which is the chon cultivar, and the rootstock, which is ud for the ro放假通知范文
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ot system. The rootstock is of-ten lected for characteristics such as dia resistance, plant size, precocity, and/or soil or climatic adaptability. In the nurry industry, inrting a single bud of the scion inside the bark of a rootstock (bud grafting or budding) in late summer is the most widely ud meth-od for propagating pome and stone fruits. However, jujubes (Ziziphus jujuba ) have a thin bark and many side branches, making it almost impossible to remove a single bud for budding (chip budding with woody tissue inside maybe possible). Other grafting methods, such as bark grafting and whip/tongue grafting, are bet-ter choices for jujube propagation.
Jujube scions can be grafted onto jujube cultivar plants or suckers, cultivar edlings, or sour jujube (Ziziphus spinosa ) edlings as rootstocks. Sour jujube edlings as rootstocks are more popular than the oth-ers due to their wide availability, good germination, and stress tolerance.
Here is a list of basic supplies needed for grafting: a hand pruner to cut the rootstocks and scionwood, a sharp grafting knife to make the cuts on scionwood/rootstock, grafting tape to tie and cover the grafting union, labels, and grafting wax/al (optional). SEED PREPARATION
Sour jujube fruit should be collected or purchad in the fall. Clean the eds by soaking the fruit in water for veral hours, smashing the fruit, removing the pulp,
and repeating the steps until the eds are clean. Keep the clean, dry eds in paper bags until stratification (a process of pretreating eds). Jujube eds can germinate without stratification, but stratification makes germina-tion easier and more reliable. Due to their hard kernels, eds need to be soaked in water for three days before stratification, and the water should be changed once or twice per day.
After soaking for three days, mix the eds with wet sand at a 1:3 to 1:4 ratio by volume. Depending on the quantity, store the eds either in pots or plastic bags at 40 to 50°F for three months to complete the stratifica-tion process. If pots are ud as stratification containers, make sure to add extra sand on top of the ed mixture to keep the mixture moist and check the moisture ev-ery 2 to 3 weeks. If plastic bags or zip-bags are ud for stratification, leave openings for air circulation. As the soil temperature ris above 50°F , the stratified eds can be eded into a well-prepared field at a depth of 1 inch or so.
SEEDLING MANAGEMENT
Beginning when edlings are 3 to 4 inches tall, fertilize them two to three times at 2-week intervals with a well-balanced fertilizer (10-10-10 or 24-8-16) at a total rate of 20 to 50 lb/acre nitrogen to enha
nce growth. Later in the growing ason when the plants are 2 feet or so in height, pinch the growing tip with your fingers to stimulate trunk diameter growth and remove the lower branches to ea grafting. Depending on the location, some of the edlings should be ready for grafting after one year of growth and all plants should be ready after two years.
SCIONWOOD
Due to jujube’s unique shoot structure, good-quality jujube scionwood is not as readily found on the plants compared with apple or peach. Most of the side branches
are not thick enough to be ud as scionwood, mak-
有什么好听的歌ing the primary shoots the most often ud scionwood source. With its long nodes, each primary shoot only has 5 to 8 nodes that can be ud for grafting. Due to the lack of scionwood, a single jujube bud piece is often ud for grafting, instead of 3 to 4 buds on apple or peach shoot pieces for bark grafting. One-year-old shoots are the best scionwood; however, two- or three-year-old shoots can also be ud for grafting. Even though only a single bud is ud for grafting, it is best to harvest scionwood in 12- to 15-inch pieces so that you have a larger stick to hold on to when grafting. Cut each piece to a single bud after the scionwood is cut and ready for inrting into the rootstock.
Scionwood Storage
If the scionwood is collected locally and will be ud within 2 to 3 weeks, waxing is not necessary. If the scionwood is shipped from other places or will be ud after a month or more, waxing the scionwood is recom-mended to keep the wood from drying out. You can u a tall candle jar to hold the wax and a double-boiler pot to prevent the temperature from rising above 212°F (100°C; water boiling point). Dip one end of the sci-onwood quickly into the wax and remove it as soon as you can, then repeat on the other end. Store the waxed or original scionwood (with some wet paper towels to keep them moist) in the refrigerator above freezing until grafting.GRAFTING METHODS
Jujube wood is 2 to 3 times harder than apple and peach. A sharp knife is required for jujube grafting. Bark grafting is ud for large-diameter rootstocks and small-diameter scions; whip grafting is ud for smaller-diam-eter rootstocks. Bark grafting can only be done when the bark “slips” from the cambium during the growing ason; whip grafting can be done in either the dormant or the growing ason. By using a combination of bark and whip grafting, you will be able to u most of your available scionwood and rootstocks of varied sizes.
Bark Grafting
Bark grafting must be done during the growing ason when the cambium layer is active and the bark is easily parated from the cambium (this is often referred to as being “slippery”). A few weeks after bud break is the best time for bark grafting. It can be done later in the grow-ing ason, but less vegetative growth will be obtained. With jujube’s thin bark and den wood, veral cuts are needed to expo a smooth, 1-inch or longer ction of the scionwood’s surface (Figure 1A). A small cut on the backside is then made to expo the cambium layer (Fig-ure 1B). Select a smooth surface clo to the ground on the rootstock, remove the part above it with a horizontal cut, and make a vertical cut on the bark until you reach the cambium layer (a layer of cells between the bark and the wood) is expod, and then loon the bark on both sides and slide the scion into it (Figures 1C and 1D). Leave a small white area of the scionwood above the rootstock on the inner side for better healing (Figure 1E). Wrap and bind the graft union with grafting tape or a grafting band and make sure all the cut surfaces are covered
Figure 1. Bark grafting process: A. cut the scionwood; B. make a small cut on the back; C. make a vertical cut on the root-stock and loon the bark on both sides of the cut; D. inrt the scionwood into the open bark of the rootstock; E. leave some white area of the scionwood above the rootstock; F . tie and al the graft union with grafting tape and label the plant.
A B C D E F
(Figure 1F). Make sure to wax/al the top end of the scion with grafting wax/al or cover it with grafting tape if you live in miarid or arid areas like New Mex-ico. The last step is to label the plant with identifying cultivar and rootstock names or codes.
Whip Grafting
Whip grafting can be done both in the dormant ason and the growing ason. When whip grafting, the di-ameters of the scionwood and rootstock must match. Compared to bark grafting, whip grafting can utilize the smaller-sized rootstocks (1/4 to 3/8 inch in diameter); it is not practical for bigger rootstocks (>0.5 inch) be-cau they are too difficult to cut properly. Whip graft-ing requires greater skill than bark grafting since the rootstock and scionwood need similar cuts—a smooth surface plus a back cut. However, the grafting union of whip grafting is stronger than bark grafting and avoids wind break. Figure 2 illustrates the basic steps of whip grafting. The wrapping and binding are similar to bark grafting, with all cut surfaces covered, including the end of the scion.
Management After Grafting
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1. Support: When the new growth is 8 to 10 inches long, put a 4-foot bamboo stick into the ground clo by and tie the new growth looly to it to avoid breakage from high winds.
2. Remove rootstock suckers after grafting.
凯诚橱柜3. Water the grafted plants regularly and fertilizer them twice when the scion is actively growing at 10 to
15 lb/acre N each time (2–3 week interval) with a balanced NPK fertilizer, depending on the soil.
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4. Maintain a weed-free area around the plants through hand hoeing, herbicides, or weed barriers. If weed barrier is ud, make sure there is a 1- to 2-inch space between the black fabric and the plant.
肾囊肿是怎么回事5. Cut the binding tape or rubber bands when the new growth is 4 to 6 inches long – just slit the binding and it will loon and fall off after a few days.
6. Some cultivars can produce some fruit in the graft-ing year and all will produce some fruit at the cond year after grafting.
Most jujube growers are discouraged by the limited number of cultivars available on the market. This
guide mentioned the commonly ud grafting methods for jujubes. With practice, growers can propagate their own jujube plants at home. Grafting is more art than science. Practice makes perfect. First-time grafters are encouraged to collect extra materials to practice on and to not get discouraged. You can also view a graft-ing video through this link: / watch?v=fFLwOWe0KQ4
Figure 2. Whip grafting procedures: A. cut the scionwood to make a smooth surface; B. make a back cut at around 1/3 from the top; C. make similar cuts to the rootstock; D. place the scionwood cut onto the rootstock cut; E. front view of the graft;
F. healed whip graft.
A B C D E F
New Mexico State University is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer and educator. NMSU and the U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating.January 2014
Las Cruces, NM
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REFERENCES
Yao, S. 2012. Jujube: Chine date in New Mexico [Guide H-330]. Las Cruces: New Mexico State University Cooperative Extension Service.
Yao, S. 2013. Past, prent and future of jujubes— Chine dates in the United States. HortScience , 48, 672–680.
Shengrui Yao is Assistant Professor and Extension Fruit Specialist at New Mexico State University’s Sustainable Agriculture Science Center at Alcalde. She earned her Ph.D. in pomology/horticulture at Cornell University. Her rearch and Extension work focus on tree fruit and small fruit production, conventional and organic production, and orchard floor and soil
fertility management.
