Appetite 欲望
（Laurie Lee）劳里 李
怎样做油饼 翻译 秦勤
评论 侯国金
One of the major pleasures in life is appetite, and one of our major duties should be to prerve it.生活的一大乐趣就是有个好胃口[h1] ，所以我们的一大任务就是要保持这种好的胃口。 Appetite is the keenness of living; it is one of the ns that tells you that you are still curious to exist, that you still have an edge on your longings and want to bite into the world and taste its multitudinous flavors and juices. 其实，胃口是种对生活的热切的渴望；胃口也是一种感觉，它让你知道你仍渴望活下去，你还有许多未能实现的渴望，因此你还想继续活在这个世界上，并且张大嘴巴去品尝世界美味。
By appetite, of cour, I don’t mean just the lust for food, but any condition of unsatisfied desire, any burning in the blood that proves you want more than you’ve got, and that you ha
ven’t yet ud up your life.当然，所谓胃口，我不仅仅是指对食物的渴望，还包括任何不满足的渴望的情形，任何骨子里透出的对未拥有的事物的渴望，因为你还没有尽情地享受你的人生。 Wilde said he felt sorry for tho who never got their heart’s desire, but sorrier still for tho who did.王尔德说他对那些未能得到满足的人而感到遗憾，但是为那些已经心满意足的人更加感到悲哀。 I got mine once only, and it nearly killed me, and I’ve always preferred wanting to having since.我曾一度满足过，可那种满足几乎将我害死，所以从那以后我一直都让自己心存渴求。
For appetite, to me, is this state of wanting, which keeps one’s expectations alive. 欲望对我来说，是一种心怀渴求的心态，它使得希望永存。I remember learning the lesson long ago as a child, when treats and orgies were few, and when I discovered that the greatest pitch of happiness was not in actually eating a toffee but in gazing at it beforehand. 还记得，还在孩提时代，我就懂得这一道理了。那时人们之间的款待和纵情享乐的机会都不多。我发现最大的幸福不在于吃泰妃糖，而是在于吃之前注视它的时候。True, the first bite was delicious, but once the toffee was gone one was left with nothing, neither toffee nor lust.说实在的，咬下第一口真是美味，可是一旦糖吃完了，就什么也没
有了，糖没了，欲望也没有了。 [h2] Besides, the whole toffeeness of toffees was imperceptibly diminished by the gross act of having eaten it.此外，泰妃糖的美味就在一口一口的咀嚼[h3] 中悄悄地消逝了。 No, the best was in wanting it, in sitting and looking at it, when one tasted an inexhaustible treasure-hou of flavors.不，最棒的就是在渴望得到一颗泰妃糖的时候，在坐在[h4] 那里看着它的时候，那种爽劲儿就像是在美食宝库中品尝无尽的美食一样。
So, for me, one of the keenest pleasures of appetite remains in the wanting, not the satisfaction. 所以，对我来说，欲望的最大乐趣就在于渴求而非满足。In wanting a peach, or a whisky, or a particular texture or sound, or to be with a particular friend. 想吃个桃子，喝杯威士忌，渴望某种质感、某个声音或是与某个朋友在一起。For in this condition, of cour, I know that the object of desire is always at its most flawlessly perfect.在这些情况下，我知道欲望的对象往往是在于它的完美无瑕。 Which is why I would carry the prervation of appetite to the extent of deliberate fasting, simply becau I think that appetite is too good to lo, too precious to be bludgeoned into innsibility by satiation and over-doing it.所以我宁愿通过故意禁食来保持我的好胃口。很简单，因为我认为好胃
口来之不易，弥足珍贵，要是因为满足和过分占有而让人不再以之为贵是很可惜的。
For that matter, I don’t really want three square meals a day—I want one huge, delicious, orgiastic, table-groaning blow-out, say every four days, and then not be too sure where the next one is coming from.因此，我并不渴望一天三顿的规律生活，倒是愿意每四天来一顿饕餮盛宴[h5] ，而下一顿从何而来却不得而知。 A day of fasting is not for me just a puritanical device for denying onelf a pleasure, but rather a way of anticipating a rare moment of supreme indulgence.一天的禁食对于我来说并非像被剥夺的快乐，而是在期待更多纵情享乐的机会。
休闲零食进货渠道 Fasting is an act of homage to the majesty of appetite. 禁欲是对欲望的神圣的一种膜拜。So I think we should arrange to give up our pleasures regularly—our food, our friends, our lovers—in order to prerve their intensity, and the moment of coming back to them.所以，我认为我们应该安排不时地放弃一些享乐之事—食物，朋友，爱人，这样的话我们才能保持我们对他们的浓烈感情，才能保留与他们重聚的那一刻。 For this is the moment that renews and refreshes both onelf and the thing one loves.因为，这一刻让
我们自己和我们钟情之物都焕然一新，充满新鲜感。重来好不好 Sailors and travelers enjoyed this once, and so did hunters, I suppo.我想不管是水手，游客还是猎人都曾有过这种体会。 Part of the weariness of modern life may be that we live too much on top of each other, and are entertained and fed too regularly.或许现代生活的一部分令人厌倦之处就在于我们的生活太接近彼此了，我们的娱乐，我们的饮食都太有规律了。 Once we were parated by hunger both from our food and families, and then we learned to value both.以前，我们因为饥饿而和食物、家人分开，于是我们学会了珍惜它们。 The men went off hunting, and the dogs went with them; the women and children waved goodbye.从前，男人们带着狗出门打猎，女人们和孩子们和他们挥手道别。 The cave was empty of men for days on end; nobody ate, or knew what to do.好多天来，男人们都不曾回来，妇孺们既没有吃的也不知道该做什么。 The women crouched by the fire, the wet smoke in their eyes; the children wailed; everybody was hungry.女人们蹲在篝火边，看着潮湿的烟[h6] ，孩子们哭闹着，大家都很饿。 Then one night there were shouts and the barking of dogs from the hills, and the men came back loaded with meat. 终于有一天，山上传来了喊声和狗叫声，男人们终于满载着猎物回来了。This was the great reunion, and everybody gorged thems感动的
elves silly, and appetite came into its own; the long-awaited meal became a feast to remember and an almost sacred celebration of life.这就是盛大的团聚，大家都贪婪地吃着食物，这时胃口大行其道。而这次期待以久的大餐就成了一顿难忘的盛宴甚至可以说是生命的一次庄严的庆典。 Now we go off to the office and come home in the evenings to cheap chicken and frozen peas. 现在，我们傍晚下班回家就是吃廉价的鸡肉和冷冻四季豆。Very nice, but too much of it, too easy and regular, rved up without effort or wanting.冬天真冷很不错，可是太多，太容易，也太有规律，不努力不渴望也能吃到。 We eat, we are lucky, our faces are shining with fat, but we don’t know the pleasure of being hungry any more.我们是幸运的，因为我们能吃，我们的脸上还闪耀着脂肪的光芒，可是我们却不再知道饥饿的乐趣所在。
Too much of anything—too much music, entertainment, happy snacks, or time spent with one’s friends—creates a kind of impotence of living by which one can no longer hear, or taste, or e, or love, or remember.任何一样东西—-农村厨房设计音乐、娱乐、零食、与朋友在一起的时光---若是太多，就会形成一种无趣的生活，这种生活中，人们再也不能去听，去品尝，去看，去爱，去记忆。歌颂老师的古诗Life is short and precious, and appetite is one of its guardians,
中国古代禁书
and loss of appetite is a sort of death.生命是如此短暂如此珍贵，而欲望就是它的一名守护者，失去欲望生命就近乎死亡。 So if we are to enjoy this short life we should respect the divinity of appetite, and keep it eager and not to much blunted.因此，如果我们想要享受我们短暂的一生，我们就应该尊重欲望的神圣，让它保持热切程度不被磨钝。
It is a long time now since I knew that acute moment of bliss that comes from putting parched lips to a cup of cold water. 很早前我就知道，当干裂的嘴唇触碰倒一杯冰水时，就会有种极其幸福的感觉。[h7] The springs are still there to be enjoyed—all one needs is the original thirst.现在，清泉犹在，只要发现内心的渴望就能一品清泉的甘甜[h8] 。
