第一集 自然的馈赠
中国拥有众多的人口，也拥有世界上最丰富多元的自然景观。高原、山林、湖泊、海岸线，这种地理和气候的跨度，有助于物种的形成和保存，任何一个国家都没有这样多潜在的食物原材料。人们采集、捡拾、挖掘、捕捞，为的是得到这份自然的馈赠。穿越四季，我们即将看到美味背后人和自然的故事。
China has a large population, and the richest and most varied natural landscapes in the world——plateaus,forests, lakes and coastlines. The various geographical features and climate conditions have helped to form and prerve widely different species. No other country has so many potential food sources as China. By collecting, fetching, digging, hunting and fishing, people have acquired abundant gifts from nature. Traveling through the four asons, we'll discover a story about nature and the people behind delicious Chine foods.
自然的馈赠 (1) ---松茸传奇
云南香格里拉，被雪山环抱的原始森林，雨季里空气阴凉。在松树和栎树自然混交林中，想尽可能跟上单珍卓玛的脚步，不是一件容易的事。卓玛和妈妈正在寻找一种精灵般的食物，卓玛在松针下找到的是松茸，一种珍贵的食用菌，这种菌子只能在没有污染的高海拔山地中才能存活。卓玛说：“一般走一公里的路，才能找到一朵松茸。”这只松茸的伞盖已经打开，品质不好。“以前的产量是很多，价格很低，现在产量低了，但价格很高”卓玛对我们这样讲到。松茸属于野生菌中的贵族，在大城市的餐厅里，一份碳烤松茸价格能达到1600元。松茸的香味浓烈袭人，稍经炙烤，就会被热力逼出一种矿物质的酽香，这令远离自然的人将此物视若珍宝。
Shangri-La, Yunnan, in the ancient forests nestled by snowy mountains. The air is wet and cool in the rainy ason. It's not easy to catch up with Danzhen Zhuoma in the forest of pines and oaks. Zhuoma and her mother are looking for an elf-like food. Zhuoma has found matsutake under the pine needles. It's a precious and edible fungus, only surviving in certain high-altituded mountain areas that are free of pollution安全密码.''We can usually only find one matsutake every kilometre. Matsutake yield was once high, but the price was low. Its production has fallen this year while the price has surged.'' Matsutake is 头孢的副作用
very expensive. At restaurants in the big cities, a dish of roast matsutake will cost 1600 yuan. Matsutake has an inten scent. After being lightly roasted, its spicy, mineral-like fragrance flows out. People who live far from nature regard the matsutake as some kind of treasure.
吉迪村是香格里拉松茸产地的中心。凌晨三点，这里已经变成一座空村，所有有能力上山的人，都已经出门去寻找那种神奇的菌子。卓玛对记者这样说道：“如果不早出来的话，别人在我前面，我就什么都找不到，别人把全部松茸都拔走了。”穿过村庄，母女俩要步行走进20公里之外的原始森林，即使对于熟悉森林的村民，捡拾松茸也是一项凭运气的劳动，品质高的松茸都隐藏在土层之下。卓玛的妈妈找寻着两天前亲手掩藏过的菌坑，沙壤土层中果然又长出了新的松茸，可惜今年雨水不足，松茸太小。卓玛不安的说：“妈妈就是不会注意自己的身体，光顾着找松茸，我就是有一点担心，有一天她头晕倒在山上，毕竟她已经岁数大了。”
Jidi village sits in the center of the matsutake production area in Shangri-La. It’s already empty before 3 am. Villagers who are able to climb mountains are out-arching for the a
mazing mushroom. “If we are late, the others won’t give us a chance. We won’t find any matsutake becau the others will have picked them all.” Zhuoma and her mother will hike to the ancient forest 20 kilometres away. Even to the villagers familiar with the forest, to find a matsutake is completely luck. High grade 忘忧花matsutake hides deep in the earth. The mother is looking for a pit that she concealed two days ago. Under the earth, a new matsutake is growing but it is very small due to a lack of rain. “My mother cares more about looking for matsutake than her own health. I’m a little worried that one day she might faint while in the mountain. She is getting old.”
酥油煎松茸，在松茸产地更常见。用黑陶土锅溶化酥油，放上切好的松茸生片，油温使松茸表面的水分迅速消失，香气毕现。高端的食材往往只需要采用最朴素的烹饪方式。以前藏族人都不爱吃松茸，嫌它的味儿怪。原来的松茸也就几毛钱一斤，可是这几年，松茸身价飞升，一个夏天上万元的收入，使牧民在忙碌的一天雨季里变得异常辛苦。松茸收购恪守严格的等级制度，48个不同的级别，从第一手的产地就要严格区分。“这个菌子是一级菌，相当好的，相当大的”收购者拿着两只松茸骄傲的说着。松茸保鲜的极限是三天，商人们以最快的速度对松茸进行精致的加工。这样一只松茸，在产地的收购价是80元，6个小时之后，它
就会以700元的价格出现在东京的超级市场中。
Yak-butter-fried matsutake is common in the matsutake production area. Melt yak butter in a black clay pan. Then add the slices of matsutake. The slices are dried rapidly in hot oil and the fragrance’s relead. Such luxurious ingredients need only to be cooked very simply. Tibetans didn’t like matsutake before becau its strange taste. Matsutake ud to be very cheap but recent years its price has shot up. To earn 10,000 yuan in one summer, herdsmen have to work hard in the rainy ason. Matsutake prices are strictly bad on grades. The matsutake products are divided into 48 grades before being sold. “This one can be rated as grade one. It’s quite good and big.” Matsutake mushroom can keep fresh for 3days at most so merchants procesd it as delicately and as quickly as possible. A matsutake like this can be originally purchad for 80 yuan. And 6 hours later, it will appear at a supermarket in Tokyo priced at 700 yuan.
卓玛挤在人群中，上午捡来的松茸品质一般，她心里很着急。“我看到别人比我采得多的时候，我的心里还是挺慌的，心急！”卓玛这样说道。刚刚过去的一天，卓玛和妈妈走了11个
小时的山路，但是换回的钱很少，错过雨季的这一个月，松茸就会消失的无影无踪，全家人期待明天的好运气。
Zhuoma is waiting with crowds. She is anxious becau her matsutake is not so good. “Others raid many more matsutake than I did so I am quite uneasy and anxious.” Over the past day, Zhuoma and her mother walked for 11 hours in the mountains but earned very little. After the rainy ason, all the matsutake will be gone. Family looks forward to摒弃前嫌 a lucky day tomorrow. 无忧岛
云南只有两个季节，旱季和雨季。从每年的11月开始，干燥而温暖的风浩浩荡荡地吹上半年，等到5月底，雨水才抵达迪庆州的香格里拉。大雨让原始森林里的各种野生菌都迅速疯长出来，但是杂菌不能引起卓玛和妈妈的兴趣。大雨是自然给的礼物，在相同付出的时候，好的运气带给卓玛更多的收获。松茸出土后，卓玛立刻用地上的松针把菌坑掩盖好，只有这样孙悟空之墓菌丝才不被破坏。为了延续自然的馈赠，村民们遵守着山林的规矩。
松茸的味道虽然独特，但是流行在餐桌上不过30年！
There are only two asons in Yunnan: rainy ason and dry ason. Every year starting from November, dry and warm winds ri on the land, blowing hard for the next six months. Not until the end of May will rain fall off on Shangri-La in Diqing prefecture. Matsutake in the ancient forest begin to shoot up after the heavy rain. But only matsutake is an interest to Zhuoma and her mother. Heavy rain is a gift from nature. Everyone works hard but fortune brings Zhuoma a better harvest. After digging out the matsutake, Zhuoma conceals the pits with pine needles. Only in this way can the hypha公文分类 be prerved to ensure sustainable yields. Tibetans follow the law of the forest. Matsutake is unique in flavor. It became a popular delicacy just 30 years ago.
