AATCC 135-2014

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This test method is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years and if not revid, either reaffirmed or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this test method or for additional procedures and should be addresd to the AATCC Technical Center. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of the responsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing, you should make your views known to Diana A. Wyman, Technical Director, at the address shown below.
This test method is copyrighted by AATCC, PO Box 12215, Rearch Triangle Park, NC 27709 USA. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this method may be obtained by contacting AATCC at the above address or tel: 919-549-3526; fax: 919-549-8933, or e-mail: orders@aatcc.
AATCC Licen Agreement: This test method is copyrighted by the American Association
of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), PO Box 12215, 1 Davis Drive, Rearch Triangle Park, NC USA. All rights rerved.
含冤负屈AATCC grants you a licen as follows: The right to download one electronic file of this AATCC test method for temporary storage on one computer for purpos of viewing, and/or printing one copy of the AATCC test method for individual u. Neither the electronic file nor the hard copy print may be reproduced in any way. In addition, the electronic file may not be distributed elwhere over computer networks or otherwi. The hard copy print may only be distributed to other employees for their internal u within your organization.
This test method is not for resale.
Copyright © 2014 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
AATCC Tec hnic al Manual/2015
TM 135-2014245
Developed in 1970 by AATCC Commit-tee RA42; reaffirmed 1973, 2000; re-vid 1978, 1987, 1995, 2001, 2003(with title change), 2004, 2010, 2012,2014; editorially revid 1982, 1985,1989, 1990, 1991, 1996, 1997, 2006,2008; editorially revid and reaffirmed 1992. Related to ISO 3759.
1. Purpo and Scope
1.1 This test method is intended for the determination of dimensional changes of fabrics when subjected to home launder-ing procedures ud by consumers. Four washing temperatures, three agitation cy-cles, two rin temperatures and four dry-ing procedures cover the common home care options available to consumers using current laundering machines.
2. Principle
2.1 The dimensional changes of fabric specimens subjected to home laundering care are measured using pairs of bench-marks applied to the fabric before laun-dering.
3. Terminology
3.1 dimensional change, n.—a ge-neric term for changes in length or width of a fabric specimen subjected to speci-fied conditions. The change is usually ex-presd as a percentage of the initial di-mension of the specimen.
悄无声息的拼音3.2 growth, n.—a dimensional change resulting in an increa of length or width of a specimen.
3.3 laundering, n.—of textile materi-als , a process intended to remove soils and/or stains by treatment (washing) with an aqueous detergent solution and nor-mally including rinsing, extraction and drying.
3.4 shrinkage, n.—a dimensional change resulting in a decrea in the length or width of a specimen.
4. Safety Precautions
NOTE: The safety precautions are for information purpos only. The pre-cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-dures and are not intended to be all inclu-sive. It is the ur’s responsibility to u safe and proper techniques in handling materials in this test method. Manufac-turers MUST be consulted for specific details such as material safety data sheets and other manufacturer’s recommenda-tions. All OSHA standards and rules
must also be consulted and followed.4.1 Good laboratory practices should be followed. Wear safety glass in all laboratory areas.
4.2 The 1993 AATCC Standard Refer-ence Detergent and the 2003 AATCC Standard Reference Liquid Detergent may cau irritation. Care should be taken to prevent exposure to skin and eyes.
4.3 Manufacturer’s safety recommen-dations should be followed when operat-ing laboratory testing equipment.
5. Apparatus and Materials (e 12.1)
5.1 Automatic washing machine (e 12.2).
5.2 Automatic tumble dryer (e 12.3).5.3 Conditioning/drying racks with pull-out screens or perforated shelves (e 12.4).
5.4 Facilities for drip drying and line drying.
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5.5 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent or 2003 AATCC Standard Reference Liquid Detergent (e 12.11and 12.12).
5.6 Ballast of 920 × 920 mm (36 × 36in.) hemmed pieces of bleached cotton sheeting (Wash load ballast type 1), or 50/50 polyester/cotton bleached plain weave (Wash load ballast type 3) (e 12.12).
5.7 Indelible ink marking pen (e 12.5) for u with suitable rule, tape,marking template or other marking de-vice (e 12.6). Sewing thread may be ud for making benchmarks.5.8 Measuring devices.
5.8.1 Tape or rule marked in milli-meters, eighths or tenths of an inch.
创建国家卫生城市5.8.2 Tape or ruled template marked directly in percent dimensional change to 0.5% or smaller increment (e 12.6).5.8.3 Digital Imaging System (e 12.7).5.9 Scale with at least 5.0 kg (10.0 lb)capacity.
6. Test Specimens
6.1 Sampling and Preparation.
6.1.1 Samples from which dimensional change specimens are to be taken should be reprentative of the fabric processing stage, finishing treatment, rearch lab trial, pallet, lot or end-product stage.
6.1.2 Fabrics that are distorted in their unlaundered state may give deceptive di-mensional change results when laundered by any procedure. In such cas, it is rec-ommended that specimens not be taken from any distorted area of a fabric sample.6.1.3 Tubular knitted samples should
be slit and handled flat in a single layer.Only circular knitted fabrics produced on body-width machines are to be ud as specimens in their tubular form. Circular knitted fabrics made on body-width ma-chines are ones to be ud in garments with no side ams. Body-width tubular circular knitted garments and amless garments (knit-to-wear) should be tested according to AATCC Method 150, Di-mensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering.
男人喝蜂蜜水壮阳6.1.4 Specimens tested in accordance with AATCC Method 135 may also be ud for testing for skewness change in accordance with Options 1 or 2 in AATCC Method 179, Skewness Change in Fabric and Garment Twist Resulting from Automatic Home Laundering (e 12.8).
6.1.5 If fraying of specimens is ex-pected in laundering (e 12.9).
6.1.6 Prior to marking, condition test specimens as directed in ASTM D1776,Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles. Condition each speci-men for at least 4 h in an atmosphere of 21 ± 1°C (70 ± 2°F) and 65 ± 2% RH by laying each test specimen parately on a screen or perforated
shelf of a condition-ing rack.
6.1.7 Lay the sample on a flat surface.Do not allow any ction of the sample to hang over the edge of the work table. Us-ing a template for the lected test size,mark specimens parallel to the lvage or fabric length direction. Avoid u of the sample area within ten percent of the sample width. Specimens should be taken from areas with different lengthwi and widthwi yarns (e Fig. 1). Identify the length direction of the specimens before cutting them out of the sample. When possible, three specimens from each fab-ric should be ud. One or two specimens may be ud when insufficient fabric
AAT CC Test Method 135-2014
Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering
Fig. 1—Diagram for cutting
fabric specimens.
S e l v a g e
Copyright © 2014 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
246TM 135-2014
AATCC Tec hnic al Manual/2015
sample is available.6.2 Marking.
6.2.1 Option 1: 250 mm (10.0 in.)benchmarks . Mark each 380 × 380 mm (15 × 15 in.) test specimen with three 250mm (10 in.) pairs of benchmarks parallel to the test specimen length and three 250mm (10 in.) pairs of benchmarks parallel to the test specimen width. Each bench-mark must be at least 50 mm (2 in.) from all test specimen edges. Pairs of bench-marks in the same direction must be spaced approximately 120 mm (5 in.)apart (e Fig. 2).
6.2.2 Option 2: 460 mm (18.0 in.)benchmarks . Mark each 610 × 610 mm (24.0 × 24.0 in.) test specimen with three 460 mm (18.0 in.) pairs of benchmarks parallel to the test specimen length and three 460 mm (18.0 in.) pairs of bench-marks parallel to the test specimen width.Each benchmark must be at least 50 mm (2.0 in.) from all test specimen edges.Pairs of benchmarks in the same direc-tions must be spaced approximately 250mm (10 in.) apart.
6.2.3 Narrow Fabrics.
6.2.3.1 For test specimens greater than 125 mm (5 in.) and less than 380 mm (15in.) wide, take full width of test fabrics and cut each specimen 380 mm (15 in.)long. Mark the length as in 6.2.1. Mea-surement of the width is optional.
wps自动编号6.2.3.2 For test specimens 25-125 mm
(1-5 in.) wide, take full width of test fab-rics and cut each specimen 380 mm (15in.) long. U only two pairs of bench-marks parallel to the length. Measure-ment of the width is optional.
6.2.3.3 For test specimens less than 25mm (1 in.) in width, take full width of test fabrics and cut each specimen 380 mm (15 in.) long. U only one pair of bench-marks parallel to the length. Measure-ment of the width is optional.
6.3 Original Measurements and Speci-men Size.
6.3.1 Specimen size and benchmarks distances ud must be indicated in the report.
6.3.2 Dimensional change results may not be comparable when different speci-men sizes, different benchmark lengths,different number of specimens, or differ-ent number of benchmarks are ud.
6.3.3 To improve the accuracy and pre-cision of the dimensional change calcula-tions bad on the benchmarks applied to the fabrics as instructed in 6.2, measure and record the distance between each pair of benchmarks with suitable tape or rule to nearest millimeter, eight or tenth of an inch. This is measurement A. In ca of narrow fabrics less than 380 mm (15 in.)wide, measure and record width if width measurement will be ud. If using a cali-brated template for marking and measur-ing in percent dimensional change di-rectly, an initial measurement is not needed.
7. Test Procedure
7.1 Table I summarizes alternative washing and drying conditions. Infor-mation on the machine and laundering conditions may be found in the AATCC Monograph M6, Standardization of Home Laundry Test Conditions (e www.aatcc/testing/resources/docs/205-M06.pdf for the latest version of the monograph).7.2 Washing.
7.2.1 Weigh test specimens and enough ballast to make a 1.8 ± 0.1 kg (4.00 ±0.25 lb) load. An alternative load size of 3.6 ± 0.1 kg (8.00 ± 0.25 lb) may be ud.Dimensional change results obtained us-ing a 1.8 kg (4 lb) load weight may not be equal to tho obtained with a 3.6 kg (8lb) load weight and should not be com-pared.
7.2.2 Select the specified water level,the desired water temperature for the washing cycle and a rin temperature of less than 29°C (85°F). If this rin tem-perature is not attainable, record available rin temperature. Fill the washing ma-chine to the 18 ± 0.5 gal water level. For alternate load size, fill washing machine to the 22.0 ± 0.5 gal water level.
7.2.3 Add 66.0 ± 1 g of 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent or 100 ±1g of 2003 AATCC Standard Reference Liquid Detergent to an 18 ± 0.5 gal wash load. For alternative load size of 22.0 ±0.5 gal, add 80 ± 1 g of 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent. Agitate water briefly to dissolve detergent. Stop the machine agitation. It should be noted that in soft water areas, the amount of de-tergent ud may be reduced to avoid ex-cessive sudsing.
Table I—Alternative Washing and Drying Conditions (e 7.1)
Washing Machine Cycle Washing Temperature Drying Procedure (1)Normal/Cotton Sturdy (2)Permanent Press (3)Delicate
Cold 16 ± 4.2°C (60 ± 7.4°F)Warm 30 ± 4.2°C (86 ± 7.5°F)Hot 44 ± 4.2°C (111 ± 7.5°F)
Extra Hot 54 ± 4.2°C (130 ± 7.5°F)
(A)Tumble
i.Normal
ii.Permanent Press iii.Delicate (B )Line (C)Drip (D)Screen
Fig. 2—Diagram for placing benchmarks on fabric specimens.
Copyright © 2014 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
AATCC Tec hnic al Manual/2015
TM 135-2014247
7.2.4 Add test specimens and ballast to machine. Set the washer for the lected washing cycle and time (e Table I and 7.1).
7.2.5 For specimens to be dried by procedures A, B or D, allow washing to proceed through the final spin cycle. Re-move the test specimens immediately after the final spin cycle, parate tangled pieces, taking care to minimize distor-tion, and dry by procedure A, B or D (e Table I and 7.1).
7.2.6 For specimens to be dried by pro-cedure C, Drip Dry, allow washing to proceed through to the final rin cycle.Remove the specimens from the washer just before the water begins to drain for the final rin cycle. Remove specimens soaking wet.7.3 Drying.
7.3.1 For drying procedures B, C and D, do not blow air directly on specimens as it may cau fabric distortion.
7.3.2 (A) Tumble Dry. Place the washed load (test specimens and ballast)in the tumble dryer, and t the tempera-ture control to generate the correct ex-haust temperatures as specified in the AATCC Monograph M6, Standardiza-tion of Home Laundry Test Conditions,(e 7.1). For fibers that are heat nsi-tive, lower temperatures consistent with producer’s care recommendations should be ud and reported. Allow the dryer to operate until the total load is dry. Remove the load immediately after the dryer stops.
7.3.3 (B) Line Dry. Hang each speci-men by two corners with the fabric length in the vertical direction. Allow the test specimen to hang in still air at room tem-perature not greater than 26°C (78°F)until dry.
7.3.4 (C) Drip Dry. Hang each dripping wet specimen by two corners, with the fabric length in the vertical direction. Al-low the specimens to hang in still air at room temperature not greater than 26°C (78°F) until dry.
7.3.5 (D) Screen Dry. Spread each specimen on a horizontal screen or perfo-rated surface removing wrinkles without distorting or stretching it. Allow the spec-imen to dry in still air at room tempera-ture not greater than 26°C (78°F).
7.3.6 Repeat the lected washing and drying cycle two more times or to an agreed number of cycles.
7.4 Conditioning and Restoration.
7.4.1 After the final washing and dry-ing cycle, condition the specimens for at least 4 h (e 6.1.5) by laying each speci-men parately on the screen or perfo-rated shelves of a conditioning rack in an atmosphere of 21 ± 1°C (70 ± 2°F) and 65 ± 2% RH.
7.4.2 For fabrics that are intended to be ud in a form fitting garment, restoration techniques are sometimes ud prior to
determining the dimensional change.Techniques for this type of restoration are not standardized (hand pulling specimens in the length and width directions at mul-tiple locations using an unspecified force). If restoration techniques are ud,a description of the technique should be reported and results should be reported as restored dimensional change.
7.4.3 If the specimens are extremely wrinkled and the consumer would AL-WAYS expect to iron a garment made from the fabric, test specimens may be hand ironed prior to re-measurement of benc
hmarks. U safe ironing tempera-tures appropriate to the fibers in the fab-ric being ironed. See Table I, Safe Ironing Temperature Guide, in AATCC Method 133, Colorfastness to Heat: Hot Pressing.Exert only that pressure during pressing which is necessary to remove wrinkles.7.4.3.1 Due to the extremely high vari-ability of hand ironing procedures per-formed by individual operators (no stan-dard test method exists for hand ironing procedures), the reproducibility of di-mensional change results after hand iron-ing has been found to be extremely poor.Conquently, caution is advid when comparing dimensional change results af-ter laundering and hand ironing, reported by different operators.
7.4.3.2 Hand ironing is intended pri-marily for the evaluation of fabrics ud in garments, which require ironing to re-move wrinkles prior to wearing. U safe ironing temperatures appropriate to the fibers in the fabric being ironed. See Ta-ble I, Safe Ironing Temperature Guide, in AATCC Method 133, Colorfastness to Heat: Hot Pressing. Exert only that pres-sure during pressing which is necessary to remove wrinkles.
7.4.3.3 After ironing, condition speci-mens for at least 4 h (e 6.1.5) by laying each specimen parately on the screen or perforated shelves of a conditioning rack in an atmosphere at 21 ± 1°C (70 ± 2°F)and 65 ± 2% RH.
8. Measurement
8.1 After conditioning, lay each test specimen without tension on a flat smooth, horizontal surface. Measure and record the distance between each pair of benchmarks to the nearest millimeter,eighth or tenth of an inch. This is mea-surement B. If using a scale calibrated in percent dimensional change, measure each benchmark to nearest 0.5% or smallest increment on the scale and record the percent dimensional change directly.
8.2 The wrinkles in most fabrics flatten sufficiently under pressure of a measur-ing instrument at the time of measure-ment not to cau measurement bias.
9. Calculation and Interpretation
9.1 Calculation.
9.1.1 If measurements were made di-rectly in percent dimensional change, av-erage the measurements in each direction made on the specimens after the first,third, or other specified number of wash-ing and drying cycles. Calculate length and width averages parately to the nearest 0.1%.
9.1.2 If measurements were made to the nearest millimeter or eight or tenth of an inch, calculate the dimensional change after the first and third or other specified washing and drying cycle as follows:
Average% DC = 100 (B – A)/A where:
DC =Average dimensional change A =Average original dimension B =Average dimension after laun-dering Both the average original and average final dimensions are the averages of the measurements in each direction made on all test specimens. Calculate length and width averages parately to the nearest 0.1% (e 12.10).
9.1.3 A final measurement smaller than the original measurement results in a negative dimensional change which is shrinkage. A final measurement larger than the original measurement results in a positive dimensional change which is growth.
9.2 Interpretation.
9.2.1 If the dimensional change after one washing, drying, and, if ud, hand ironing cycle as calculated in 9.1, is within a specification previously agreed on, continue test procedures as directed in 7.2, 7.3 and 7.4 until an agreed upon number of cycles has been completed.9.2.2 If the dimension
al change after one washing, drying, and, if ud, hand ironing cycle as calculated in 9.1 exceeds a specification previously agreed on, ter-minate the test.
10. Report
10.1 Report for each sample tested:(a) Dimensional change of length and width, parately, to the nearest 0.1%with a minus sign (-) for shrinkage or a plus (+) sign for growth (e 9.1.3).
(b) Washing procedure (include type of washing, cycle and temperature) and dry-ing procedure (include type of drying, cy-cle and temperature).
(c) Size of specimens and benchmarks (d) Size of load; i.e., 1.8 kg (4 lb) or 3.6 kg (8 lb).
(e) Number of complete washing and drying cycles (e 9.2).
(f) If fabrics were distorted or wrinkled in their original state.
(g) If fabrics were hand ironed.
Copyright © 2014 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
日本美女人体248TM 135-2014
AATCC Tec hnic al Manual/2015
(h) If fabric was restored and a restora-tion technique.
11. Precision and Bias
11.1 Precision . Precision for this test method has not been established. Until a precision statement is generated for this test method, u standard statistical tech-niques in making any comparisons of test results for either within-laboratory  or between-laboratory  averages.
11.2 Bias . Dimensional changes in au-tomatic home laundering of fabrics can be defined only in terms of a test method.There is no independent method for de-termining the true value. As a means of estimating this property, the method has no known bias.
12. Notes
12.1 For potential equipment information pertaining to this test method, plea visit the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide  at www.aatcc/bg. AATCC provides the pos-sibility of listing equipme
nt and materials sold by its Corporate members, but AATCC does not qualify, or in any way approve, endor or certify that any of the listed equipment or materials meets the requirements in its test methods.
12.2 Contact AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Re-arch Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:orders@aatcc; web site: www.aatcc,for model number(s) and source(s) of current recommended washer(s). Any other washer,which is known to give comparable results,can be ud. Washing machine conditions given in AATCC Monograph M6, Standard-ization of Home Laundry Test Conditions,reprent the actual speeds and times available on the current specified model(s). Other wash-ers can vary in one or more of the ttings.
12.3 Contact AATCC, P.O. Box 12215,Rearch Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:orders@aatcc; web site: www.aatcc,for model number(s) and source(s) of current recommended dryer(s). Any other dryer,which is known to give comparable results,can be ud. Dryer machine conditions given in AATCC Monograph M6, Standardization of Home Laundry Test Conditions, reprent the actual temperatures and cool-down times available on the current specified model(s).Other dryers can vary in one or more of the ttings.
12.4 Screen or perforated conditioning/dry-ing racks available from: Somers Sheet Metal Inc., 5590 N. Church St., Greensboro NC 27405; tel: +1.336.643.3477; fax: +1.336.643.7443. Rack drawings are available from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Rearch Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax:+1.919.549.8933; e-mail: orders@aatcc;web site: www.aatcc.
12.5 Marking pens are available from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Rearch Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1. 919.549.8141; fax:+1.919.549.8933; e-mail: orders@aatcc;web site: www.aatcc.
12.6 A ruled template marked in percent di-mensional change is available from AATCC,Box 12215, Rearch Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: orders@aatcc; web site:www.aatcc. A mechanical marking device and measuring tape marked in percent dimen-sional change is available from Benchmark Devices Inc., 3305 Equestrian Trail, Marietta GA 30064; tel: +1.770.795.0042; fax: +1.770.421.8401; e-mail: bmarkers@bellsouth.12.7 A digital imaging system may be ud as a measuring device in place of the pre-scribed manual measurement devices if it is established that its accuracy is equivalent to the manual devices.
12.8 When using the same specimens for AATCC Methods 135 and 179, extend corner markings to form right angles.
12.9 If excessive fraying occurs in launder-ing, specimen edges may be pinked or slashed.Sewing or over-edging a specimen is not rec-ommended as it may influence actual dimen-sional change results. However, in the ca where AATCC Methods 124 (Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering) and 135 are performed on the same specimens, some woven fabric construc-tions may require the specimen edges to be wn or over-edged to prevent vere raveling that could cau entanglement in washing or drying, and therefore influence the asssment of both dimensional change and smoothness.12.10 If information on the dimensional change variability within or between speci-mens is desired, calculate dimensional change bad on the individual pairs of benchmarks for within specimen data or bad on the aver-age of the three pair of benchmarks for be-tween specimen data.
12.11 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Rearch Triangle Park NC 27709; tel:+1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:orders@aatcc; web site: www.aatcc.12.12 The AATCC Technical Center con-ducted a study to compare the 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent, AATCC Stan-dard Reference Detergent 124 and two differ-ent types of fabrics (current and propod) to be ud as ballast, under the following test conditions:Machine cycle:江南水
(1)—Normal/Cotton Sturdy
Washing Temp:(V)—60 ± 3°C (140 ± 5°F)Drying Procedure:(A)i—Tumble dry, cotton
sturdy cycle
Fabrics tested:White Twill (100% cotton)
Beige Twill (100% cotton)Gray Poplin (100% cotton)Blue Twill (50/50 poly/cotton)No significant differences were found in the results using either detergent or ballast load fabrics.

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