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nvnuOn some conquences of the canonical transformation in the Hamiltonian theory of water
waves
期刊名称： Journal of Fluid Mechanics
手机root教程作者： JANSSEN,PETER A. E. M.
年份： 2009年手术并发症
关键词： Theoretical or Mathematical/ gravity waves; surface waves (fluid); water waves/ canonical transformation; Hamiltonian theory; water waves; cond-order wavenumber; frequency spectrum; cond-order wavenumber spectrum;
skewness; cond-order effects; cond harmonics; infragravity waves;
directional-frequency spectrum/ A9210H Surface waves, tides, and a level
蒸羊肉的家常做法摘要：We discuss some conquences of the canonical transformation in the Hamiltonian theory of wa
敌字开头的成语ter waves (Zakharov,J. Appl. Mech. Tech. Phys., vol. 9, 1968, pp. 190–194). Using Krasitskii's canonical transformation we derive general expressions for the cond-order wavenumber and frequency spectrum and the skewness and the kurtosis of the a surface. For deep-water waves, the cond-order wavenumber spectrum and the skewness play an important role in understanding the so-called a-state bias as en by a radar altimeter. According
墙柜to the prent approach but in contrast with results obtained by Barrick & Weber (J. Phys. Oceanogr., vol. 7, 1977, pp. 11–21), in deep water cond-order effects on the wavenumber spectrum are relatively small. However, in shallow water in which waves are more nonlinear, the cond-order
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