Developed in 1969 by AATCC Committee RA43. Superdes AATCC 85-1968; re-affirmed 1973, 1976, 1979, 1989, 1998, 2003; editorially revid 1981, 1986, 1990, 1995, 2001, 2002; editorially re-vid and reaffirmed 1985; revid 1993, 2004. Technically equivalent to ISO 105-D01.
1. Purpo and Scope
1.1 This test method is intended for de-termining the colorfastness of textiles to all kinds to drycleaning.
1.2 The test method is neither suitable for the evaluation of the durability of tex-tile finishes, nor is it intended for u in evaluating the resistance of colors to spot and stain removal procedures ud by the drycleaner (e 11.1).
1.3 This test method gives an indica-tion of results to be obtained from three commercial drycleanings.
2. Principle
2.1 A specimen of the textile in contact with cotton fabric, multifiber swatch and noncorrodible steel discs is agitated in perchloroethylene (e 11.2) and then dried in air. Any change in color of the specimen is then assd with the stan-dard Gray Scale for Color Change.
2.2 Any staining is assd by using the Gray Scale for Staining or the Chro-matic Transference Scale.
3. Terminology
3.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of
a material to change in any of its color characteristics, to transfer of its color-ant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that might be encoun-tered during the processing, testing, stor-age or u of the material.
3.2 drycleaning, n.—the cleaning of fabrics with organic solvents such as pe-troleum solvent, perchloroethylene or fluorocarbon.
NOTE: The process also includes add-ing detergent and moisture to the solvent, up to 75% RH, and hot tumble drying to 71°C (160°F).
4. Safety Precautions
NOTE: The safety precautions are for information purpos only. The pre-cautions are ancillary to
the testing proce-dures and are not intended to be all inclu-sive. It is the ur’s responsibility to u safe and proper techniques in handling materials in this test method. Manufac-
turers MUST be consulted for specific
details such as material safety data sheets
and other manufacturer’s recommenda-
tions. All OSHA standards and rules
must be consulted and followed.
4.1 Good laboratory practices should
be followed. Wear safety glass in all
laboratory areas.
4.2 All chemicals should be handled
with care.
4.3 Perchloroethylene is toxic by inha-
lation, by repeated contact with the skin
and by ingestion; it should be ud only
in a well vented atmosphere. Toxicology
studies with laboratory animals have
shown evidence of cancer in rats and工程签证流程
mice expod to perchloroethylene va-
pors at 100-400 ppm concentrations for
prolonged times. Fabric saturated with
this solvent should be dried in an ade-
quately ventilated hood. U chemical
goggles or face shield, impervious gloves
and an impervious apron when handling
perchloroethylene.
4.4 An eyewash/safety shower should
be located nearby and an organic vapor
respirator should be readily available for
emergency u.
4.5 Exposure to chemicals ud in this
procedure must be controlled at or below
levels t by governmental authorities
(e.g., Occupational Safety and Health
Administration’s [OSHA] permissible
exposure limits [PEL] as found in 29
CFR 1910.1000 of January 1, 1989). In
addition, the American Conference of
Governmental Industrial Hygienists
abcc式词语大全(ACGIH) Threshold Limit V alues (TLVs)
comprid of time weighted averages
(TLV-TWA), short term exposure limits
(TLV-STEL) and ceiling limits (TLV-C)
are recommended as a general guide for
air contaminant exposure which should
be met (e 11.3).
4.6 Manufacturer’s safety recommen-
dations should be followed when operat-
ing laboratory testing equipment.
4.7 Any perchloroethylene residue
must be nt to a permitted waste man-
agement facility. Any disposal must be in
compliance with federal, state or local
regulations.
5. Apparatus and Materials
5.1 Launder-Ometer (e 11.4).
5.2 Standard stainless-steel containers,
7.5 cm diam × 12.5 cm (3 in. diam × 5
in.), of approximately 500 mL (1 pt) ca-
pacity, which can be clod using sol-
vent-resistant gaskets (e 11.4).
5.3 Noncorrodible steel discs, 30.0 ±
2.0 mm (1.18 ± 0.08 in.) diam ×
3.0 ± 0.5
mm (0.12 ± 0.02 in.) smooth and free
from rough edges, weight 20.0 ± 2.0 g
(0.7 ± 0.07 oz) (e 11.4).
5.4 Undyed cotton twill cloth weighing
270 ± 70 g/m2 (8 ± 2 oz/yd2), free from
finishes and cut into swatches 12.0 × 12.0
cm (4.75 × 4.75 in.) (e 11.5).
5.5 Multifiber test fabrics No. 1 and
FB (8 mm [0.33 in.] bands) contains
bands of acetate, cotton, nylon, silk, vis-
co rayon and wool. Multifiber test fab-
rics No. 10, and FA (8 mm [0.33 in.]
bands) and No. 10A and FAA (15 mm
[0.6 in.] bands) contain bands of acetate,
风清月朗cotton, nylon, polyester, acrylic and wool
(e 11.6).
5.6 Perchloroethylene, commercial
drycleaning grade.
5.7 Gray Scale for Color Change (e
11.7).
5.8 Gray Scale for Staining or AATCC
Chromatic Transference Scale (e 11.7).
5.9 Colorimeter or spectrophotometer.
5.10 Crockmeter Test Cloth (e 11.5).
5.11 Detergent, Perk-Sheen (e 11.8).
6. Specimens
6.1 If the textile to be tested is fabric,
u three specimens, each 10 × 5 cm (4 ×
2 in.) with the longer dimension parallel
to the warp or wale direction of the fabric.
6.2 If the textile to be tested is a yarn,
knit it into a fabric and u three speci-
mens 10 × 5 cm (4 × 2 in.) with the longer
dimension parallel to the wale direction
of the fabric.
6.3 Sample preparation.
6.3.1 White cotton fabric, multifiber
No. 1, No. 10, FA or FB. Prepare pieces
with a 5 cm (2 in.) square of multifiber
cloth or white cotton fabric (as required)
wn, stapled or suitably attached along
one 5 cm (2 in.) edge of the test specimen
and in contact with the face of the mate-
rial. When multifiber test cloth is ud,
attach it so that each of the six fiber
stripes is along the 5 cm (2 in.) edge of
the specimen with wool on the right. The
fiber stripes in the multifiber fabric will
be parallel to the lengthwi direction of
the test specimen.
6.3.2 Multifiber No. 10A or FAA. Pre-
pare pieces with a 5 × 10 cm (2 × 4 in.)
rectangle of multifiber cloth wn, sta-
pled or suitably attached centered along a
10 cm (4 in.) edge of the test specimen
and in contact with the face of the mate-
rial. Attach it so that each of the six fiber
stripes will be parallel to the widthwi
direction of the specimen. Attach and -
AATCC Test Method 132-2004
Colorfastness to Drycleaning
222TM 132-2004AATCC Technical Manual/2006
cure the wool stripe at the top of the spec-imen to avoid fiber loss.
6.3.3 It is recommended that knitted fabrics be wn or stapled at the four edges to equivalent size pieces of 80 × 80 cm bleached cotton fabric to avoid rolled edges and to assist in obtaining a uniform test result over the entire surface.
6.3.4 For pile fabric specimens with pile lay direction, attach the multifiber fabric at the top of the specimen with the pile lay direction pointing away from the top of the specimen.
6.3.5 When the textile to be tested is yarn, specimens may be tested in one of two ways.
6.3.5.1 Option 1. Knit yarn on an ap-propriate sample knitting machine. Pre-pare specimens and multifiber test fabrics according to 6.1-6.3. Keep one knitted specimen of each sample as an original.
6.3.5.2 Option 2. Prepare four 120-yd skeins of each yarn. Fold the skeins so that there is a uniform amount of yarn across a 2 in. width with a length appro-priate for the procedure to be ud. Keep one skein of each sample as an original. Sew or staple crock squares folded over each end of the layered yarn specimen. Attach a multifiber test fabric to one end.
7. Procedure
7.1 Prepare a bag for each specimen with inside dimensions of 10 × 10 cm (4× 4 in.) using the undyed cotton twill cloth (e 5.4) by wing together two squares of this cloth around three sides. Place the specimen and 12 steel discs in-side the bag (e 5.3). Clo the bag by any convenient means, such as wing.
7.2 In a hood, prepare the perchloroet-hylene/detergent solution. To a 1000 mL volumetric flask filled partially with per-chloroethylene, add 10 mL of detergent, (Perk Sheen 324). Shake or stir. Add per-chloroethylene until the total volume equals 1000 mL. Add 0.6 mL water. Shake or stir until the solution is no longer cloudy. This mixture produces a 1% charge volume/volume at 75% RH.
7.3 In a hood, place the bag containing the specimen and the steel discs in the standard 500 mL (1 pt) stainless steel container and add 200 mL perchloroeth-ylene detergent solution at 30 ± 2°C (86 ±
4°F). Clo the container and agitate the specimen for 30 min at 30 ± 2°C (86 ±4°F) in the specified equipment (e 11.4).
7.4 Place the container in an ade-quately ventilated hood. Remove the bag from the container, withdraw the speci-men and place the specimen between lay-ers of absorbent paper or cloth to remove surplus solvent. Air dry the specimen in a hood. Air at a temperature not exceeding 65°C (149°F).
7.5 Allow specimens to condition at 65± 2% RH and 20 ± 1°C (68 ± 2°F) for 1 h before evaluating.
7.6 Prepare the tested specimens and
staining fabric for evaluation by trim-
ming off raveled yarns and lightly brush-
ing off any loo fiber and yarn on the
fabric surfaces. Brush pile fabric speci-
mens in required direction to restore them
as nearly as possible to the same pile an-
gle as the untreated specimens. Speci-
mens should be smoothed or flattened if
there are wrinkles. Specimens may be
mounted on cards to facilitate identifica-
tion and handling in their evaluation.
Mounting must not interfere with rating
as specified in AATCC Evaluation Proce-
dures 1 (Gray Scale for Color Change), 2
(Gray Scale for Staining), and 3 (AATCC
Chromatic Transference Scale). For con-
sistency in backing material, u a white
mounting card with Y tristimulus value
of at least 85%.
7.6.1 Yarn skein specimens should be
combed and brushed for improved align-
ment of yarns before comparison with the
unwashed original. The original speci-
mens may also need further combing and
brushing for uniformity of appearance.
8. Evaluation and Calculation
8.1 Evaluation of Color Change.
8.1.1 Rate the color change of the test
specimens using the Gray Scale for Color
Change. (Usage of the scale is discusd
in Evaluation Procedure 1.) For improved
precision and accuracy, the specimens
should be rated by more than one rater.
Grade 5—negligible or no change as
shown in Gray Scale Step 5.
Grade 4.5—change in color equivalent
to Gray Scale Step 4-5.
Grade 4—change in color equivalent
韵母表怎么读
to Gray Scale Step 4.
Grade 3.5—change in color equivalent
to Gray Scale Step 3-4.
Grade 3—change in color equivalent
to Gray Scale Step 3.
Grade 2.5—change in color equivalent
to Gray Scale Step 2-3.
Grade 2—change in color equivalent
to Gray Scale Step 2.
Grade 1.5—change in color equivalent
to Gray Scale Step 1-2.
Grade 1—change in color equivalent
to Gray Scale Step 1.
8.1.2 The color change can be quantita-
tively determined between the original
sample and a test specimen using a suit-
able colorimeter or spectrophotometer
(e AATCC Evaluation Procedure 7, In-
strumental Asssment of the Change in
Color of a Test Specimen).
8.2 Evaluation of Staining.
8.2.1 Rate staining by using the Gray
Scale for Staining or the AATCC Chro-
人物采访提纲matic Transference Scale. (Usage of the
scales is discusd in Evaluation Proce-
dures 2 and 8.) The scale ud should be
indicated when reporting the test results
as follows:
Grade 5—negligible or no color trans-
fer.Grade 4.5—color transfer equivalent
to Step 4-5 on the Gray Scale for Staining
or Row 4.5 on the 9-step AATCC Chro-
matic Transference Scale.
Grade 4—color transfer equivalent to
Step 4 on the Gray Scale for Staining or
Row 4 on the 9-step AATCC Chromatic
Transference Scale.
Grade 3.5—color transfer equivalent to
Step 3-4 on the Gray Scale for Staining or
Row 3.5 on the 9-step AATCC Chro-
matic Transference Scale.
Grade 3—color transfer equivalent to
Step 3 on the Gray Scale for Staining or
Row 3 on the 9-step AATCC Chromatic
Transference Scale.
Grade 2.5—color transfer equivalent to
Step 2-3 on the Gray Scale for Staining or
Row 2.5 on the 9-step AATCC Chro-
matic Transference Scale.
Grade 2—color transfer equivalent to
Step 2 on the Gray Scale for Staining or
Row 2 on the 9-step AATCC Chromatic
Transference Scale.
Grade 1.5—color transfer equivalent to
Step 1-2 on the Gray Scale for Staining or
Row 1.5 on the 9-step AATCC Chro-
matic Transference Scale.
Grade 1—color transfer equivalent to
Step 1 on the Gray Scale for Staining or
Row 1 on the 9-step AATCC Chromatic
Transference Scale.
8.2.2 The color transferred to the mul-
tifiber fabric or white cotton square of
6.3.1 can be quantitatively determined by
measuring the color difference between a
piece of the original material and the
stained material. Using a suitable color-
imeter or spectrophotometer, the No. 10A
multifiber material has sufficient width to
be within the aperture diameter capability
of many instruments.
8.3 Calculation.
8.3.1 Average the obrvations made
on each sample (means of judgement of 3
specimens).
9. Calculating and Reporting Results
9.1 Average the number of obrva-
tions made on each sample (means of
judgments on each of 3 specimens). Re-
port the average to the nearest tenth of a
grade point.
9.2 Report the test method number.
9.3 Report the grade number deter-
mined for color change in 9.1 and the
staining grade number for the evaluated
fibers in the multifiber test fabric and/or
staining fabric as determined in 9.2.
9.4 State which scale (Gray Scale for
Staining or AATCC Chromatic Transfer-
ence Scale) was ud in evaluating stain-
ing (e 11.9).
9.5 State whether multifiber No. 1, No.
10 or No. 10A was ud, and if the cotton
print cloth was employed to avoid knit
curling.
AATCC Technical Manual/2006TM 132-2004223
10. Precision and Bias
10.1 Precision. On one fabric, three specimens were tested by each of two op-erators in three trials. The specimens were rated by two evaluators. The aver-age grade for the two raters and three specimens was determined. This was con-sidered the unit of measure of this test. 10.2 The compon
ents of variance as standard deviations of the color change grades were calculated to be as follows: Single operator0.03
Within laboratory0.11 10.3 Bias. The true value of the color change can only be defined in terms of the test method. Within this limitation, the test method has no known bias.
11. Notes
11.1 This test method covers colorfastness to drycleaning only; it does not cover the ef-fects of water spotting, solvent spotting and
steam pressing which are normally involved in
commercial drycleaning practice. For testing
the durability of applied designs and finishes
e AATCC Method 86, Durability of Applied
Designs and Finishes to Drycleaning.
思源计划11.2 Perchloroethylene is ud in this test
becau (a) it is the most ud solvent in com-
mercial drycleaning in the USA, and (b) it is
slightly more vere in solvent action than pe-
troleum. A color which is not affected by per-
chloroethylene will not be affected by
petroleum solvents, whereas the conver is
not always true.
11.3 Available from Publications Office,
ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330
Kemper Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240;
tel: 513/742-2020.
11.4 Available from SDL Atlas L.L.C.,
1813A Associate Lane, Charlotte NC 28217;
tel: 704/329-0911; fax: 704/329-0914; e-mail:
11.5 Available from Testfabrics Inc., P.O.
Box 26, 415 Delaware St., W. Pittston PA
18643; tel: 570/603-0432; fax: 570/603-0433;
e-mail:
11.6 Multifiber test fabrics No. 1, No. 10
and No. 10A are available from Testfabrics
Inc., P.O. Box 26, 415 Delaware St., W.
Pittston PA 18643; tel: 570/603-0432; fax:
570/603-0433; e-mail:
Multifiber test fabrics FA, FB and FAA are
available from Textile Innovators Corp., div.
of SDL Atlas L.L.C., P.O. Box 8, 101 Forest
St., Windsor NC; tel: 252/794-9703; fax: 252/
794-9704; e-mail: Bleached
cotton test fabric in 32 × 32 ends × picks/cm
牙痛穴(80 × 80 ends × picks/in.) construction, 136 ±
10 g/m2 (4.0 ± 0.3 oz/yd2) and without fluores-
cent whitening agent is available from both
suppliers.
11.7 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box
12215, Rearch Triangle Park NC 27709;
tel:919/549-8141; fax: 919/549-8933; e-mail:
orders@aatcc.
11.8 Available from Adco Inc., 900 W.
Main St., P.O. Box 999, Sedalia MO 65301;
tel: 660/826-3300 or 800/821-7556; fax: 660/
826-1361; e-mail:
11.9 For very critical evaluations and in
光猪节cas of arbitration, grades must be bad on
the Gray Scale for Staining.
224TM 132-2004AATCC Technical Manual/2006
