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文献出处：Sukumar N, Gnanavel P, Ananthakrishnan T. Effect of Seams on Drape of Fabrics [J]. African Rearch Review, 20xx, 3(3)：62-72.
原文方瓜
Effect of Seams on Drape of Fabrics
Sukumar ；Gnanavel. P. , Ananthakrishnan, T.
Abstract
Drape of the fabric is its ability to hang freely in graceful folds when some area of it is supported over a surface and the rest is unsupported. Drape is a unique property that allows a fabric to be bent in more than in one direction, When two-dimensional fabric are converted to three-dimensional garment form. In the prent study, the effects of wing of
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different am were lected on different fabric and their behaviors were studied. In this study drape of ten fabrics are analyzed with three types of ams and three stitch densities. Sample without am is a control sample and drape of amed samples are compared with control sample to analyze the drape behavior of amed fabrics. This paper prents a fundamental drape analysis of amed fabrics using drape meter. Drape behavior is determined in terms of drape coefficient. The effect of ams on the drape coefficient and Drape profile has been made. Drape coefficients significantly differs between the fabrics and also between the am stitch density combinations. Investigating drape on amed fabrics can improve fabric end u application.柳公权简介
Key words: drape, computer aided design, am, stitch density
Introduction
Drape is an important property that decides the gracefulness of any garment as it is relates to aesthetics of garments (Kaushal Raj sharma and B.K. Behera. 20xx). The mechanical properties of fabrics were first studied during the late 19th century by German
rearchers working on developing airships (Postle, 1998). Drape ability has been regarded as a quantitative characteristic of cloth, and veral devices as well as virtual systems have been developed to measure it (Booth, 1968; Jeong, 1998; Stylios and Wan, 1999). Instruments for measuring drape ability have been developed by Chu et al.(1950) and later by Cusick (1965, 1968) using a parallel light source that reflects the drape shadow of a circular specimen from hanging disc into a piece of ring paper at prent numerous instruments, ranging from a simple cantilever bending tester to a dynamic drape tester developed for measuring fabric drape. During recent years, the investigation of fabric drape has attracted the attention of many rearchers becau of the attempts to realize the clothing Computer aided design (CAD) system by introducing the fabric properties, in which fabric drape is the key element. It is obvious that fabrics have to be wn together for a garment to be formed. The ams of a garment affect the fabric drape greatly (Matsudaira, M. and Yang, M. 2000). It is uealistic to realize the appearance of a garment system without the consideration of ams and the methods of asmbling of fabrics into garments (Jinlian Hu et al, 1997).
When a fabric is draped; it can bend in one or more directions. Curtains and drapes usually bend in one direction, whereas garments and upholstery exhibit a
complex three-dimensional form with double curvature. Hence, fabric drape is a complex mathematical problem involving large deformations under low stress (Postle, 1993).
A plain am the most typical am found extensively in apparel is the simplest type in which a single row of lock stitches joins two pieces of fabrics together. Thus, investigating the effect of a plain am on fabric drape has a significant value for both the textile and clothing industries. The quantified drapeability of a fabric into a dimensionless value called a “Drape coefficient”, which is defined as the percent of the area from an angular ring of fabric covered by a vertical projection of the draped fabric (Brand R.H.1964). “Drape co efficient (DC)” the main parameter ud to quantify fabric drape (Narahari Kenkare and Traci May-Plumlee. 20xx). Though uful, it is insufficient to characterize complex forms such as garments. Stylios and Zhu, 1997 considered that the drape coefficient by itlf did not capture the full aesthetic quality of the drape of a fabric.
Drape profile of fabrics with ams provide guidance for garment designs and producers in the apparel industry and improve the understanding of drape properties corresponding to different am features (Fourt.L and Hollies.N.R.S.1970). Furthermore, we expect that the results will be uful in predicting garment drape with clothing CAD systems.
Different types of ams are ud in garment making and also wide stitch densities are employed. Once the fabric is joined with ams possibly its drape configuration would vary.
The product range of textile industry has extended to the garments. Mass production of operational systems and automated wing is making more and more prence, it is very esntial to understand to the change in properties the fabric under goes once it is amed. This study is an attempt to understand the effects of ams on the drape of fabrics, which is one of key characteristics for apparels and certain draperies.
Types of Seam
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新媒体部 The types of ams were lected and in each type, three stitch densities were employed. Fabrics were wn along the warp and weft direction on a 35cm square side. Control sample for the test is a piece with no ams. This resulted in 9 treatment combinations.
(1) Plain Seam (S1)免费模板简历
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This is the most common am ud in the garment industry. This is easy to make and pliable. It is normally suitable for all types of garments. And, it is suitable for curved locations like armhole. To make this am we have to place two pieces of fabrics to be joined together right sides facing, matching the am lines, and we should stitch the am exactly on the am line.
(2) Welt Seam (S2)
For constructing this, we should stitch the plan am and press both am allowances to one side. Then the inside am allowance is trimmed to ”. Then top stitching is done o
n the right side of the garment by catching the wider am allowance. This type is normally ud on heavy coats.亚洲第一狼
