2月24日
美式中餐的演变 | 经济学人泛读
The development of Chine-American cuisine reflects the community’s own upward trajectory
美式中餐的演变反应了美籍华人自身的上升轨迹
FOR SEVERAL years, beginning in the mid-2000s, devotees of Chine food on America’s east coast obsd over a mystery: Where was Peter Chang? A prodigiously talented—and peripatetic—chef, Mr Chang bounced around eateries in the south-east. One day diners at a strip-mall restaurant in suburban Richmond or Atlanta might be eating standard egg rolls and orange chicken; the next, their table would be graced by exquisite pieces of aubergine the size of an index finger, grealessly fried and dusted with cumin, dried chillies and Sichuan peppercorns. Or by a soup made of pickled mustard greens and fresh a bass, in its way as hauntingly perfect and austere as a Bach cello suite. A few months later, Mr Chang would move on.
爱莲说古诗从2005年前后开始，有那么几年美国东海岸的中餐迷对一个神秘事件津津乐道：张鹏亮（Peter Chang）在哪儿？他是一名才华横溢却行踪不定的厨师，游走于美国东南部的众多餐馆之间。里士满或亚特兰大近郊路边商店街的某个餐馆里，食客前一天可能还在吃着普通的鸡蛋卷和陈皮鸡，后一天他们的餐桌上摆上了食指大小的精巧茄子条，油炸过却不油腻，上面撒着孜然、干辣椒和四川花椒；有时是新鲜海鲈鱼配酸菜做成的汤，如巴赫大提琴组曲般完美简约，令人回味。几个月后，张鹏亮又会飘然离去。
He now ems to have ttled down, running a string of restaurants bearing his name between Rockville, Maryland, and Virginia Beach. His latest—Q by Peter Chang—in the smart Washington suburb of Bethesda, may be his finest. The space is vast and quasi-industrial, with brushed concrete floors, massive pillars and not a winking dragon in sight. Order a scallion pancake, and what appears is not the typical greasy disc but an airy, volleyball-sized dough sphere. Jade shrimp with crispy rice comes under what looks like an upturned wooden bowl (perhaps, you think, for the shells). On inspection the bowl turns out to be the rice. Thumping through it with a spoon reveals perfectly cooked shrimp floating in shamrock-green sauce.
现在，他似乎已经安定下来，在马里兰州的罗克维尔和弗吉尼亚海滩之间开出了一系列以自己的名字命名的餐厅。最新的一家叫“Q by Peter Chang”（以下简称Q餐厅），位于华盛顿的高档郊区贝塞斯达，也许是他所有餐厅中最高级的。里面非常宽敞，打磨混凝土地面和大柱子营造出工业风，看不到眨着眼的龙。点一道“葱油泡饼”，端上来的不是通常那种油腻的圆形薄饼，而是排球大小的轻盈的炸面球。“锅巴葱汁虾贝”上面貌似倒扣着一只木碗（你也许以为那是扔虾壳用的）。细看才会发现那“木碗”正是锅巴。用勺子敲碎锅巴，精致烹调的虾浮现于三叶草绿色的酱汁中。
A tab for two at Q can easily top three figures—veral times the outlay on an average Chine meal. Nor is Mr Chang’s the only such restaurant in the area: like many big American cities, Washington has en a ri in high-end Chine cuisine. That is good news, and not just for well-heeled gourmands who can tell shuijiao from shuizhu. The culinary trend is underpinned by two benign social ones. Chine-Americans are becoming wealthier and more lf-confident; and customers are shedding old stereotypes about Chine food. To put it another way: sometimes a dumpling is more than just a dumpling.
两人在Q餐厅用餐，账单很容易上到三位数，是普通中餐的好几倍。但Q餐厅也不是该地区唯一此类餐厅：和美国许多大城市一样，华盛顿也刮起了一股高档中餐的风潮。这是好事，不止是对那些分得清“水饺”和“水煮”的阔绰老饕而言。在这股餐饮潮流背后有两个良性社会趋势在支撑。一方面，美国华裔变得越来越富也越来越自信，另一方面，顾客也在逐渐消除对中餐的刻板印象。换句话说，有时候饺子不只是饺子了。
瑞字组词
柴爿馄饨The comfort of strangers
外人的慰藉
市场营销研究生Chine restaurants began to open in America in the mid-19th century, clustering on the west coast where the first immigrants landed. They mostly rved an Americanid version of Cantone cuisine—chop suey, egg fu yung and the like. In that century and much of the 20th, the immigrants largely came from China’s south-east, mainly Guangdong province.
中餐馆最早在美国出现是在19世纪中叶，集中在第一批移民落脚的西海岸地区。它们大多
提供美式粤菜——杂碎、芙蓉蛋之类。在19世纪以及20世纪的大部分时间，这些移民主要来自中国东南部，主要是广东省。
After the immigration reforms of 1965 removed ethnic quotas that limited non-European inflows, Chine migrants from other regions started to arrive. Restaurants began calling their food “Hunan” and “Sichuan”, and though it rarely bore much remblance to what was actually eaten in tho regions, it was more diver and boldly spiced than the sweet, fried stuff that defined the earliest Chine menus. By the 1990s adventurous diners in cities with sizeable Chine populations could choo from an array of regional cuisines. A particular favourite was Sichuan food, with its addictively numbing fire (the Sichuan peppercorn has a slightly anaesthetising, tongue-buzzing effect).国家行动下载
美国在1965年改革了移民政策，取消了限制非欧洲人迁入的种族配额，来自中国其他地区的移民开始涌入。餐馆开始管自家菜品叫“湖南”、“四川”，尽管它们往往与这些地区的实际菜式大相径庭；但相比最早期中餐菜单上那些偏甜的炒菜和油炸食物，这些新式中餐更多元，也更敢用辣。到了90年代，在华裔较多的美国城市，勇于尝新的食客已经可以选择各七夕快乐
你是怎样过春节的
起步走大菜系的中餐。带有令人上瘾的麻辣味（川椒有轻微麻醉舌头的作用）的川菜尤其受欢迎。
Yet over the decades, as Chine food became ubiquitous, it also—beyond the niche world of connoisurs—came to be standardid. There are almost three times as many Chine restaurants in America (41,000) as McDonald’s. Virtually every small town has one and, generally, the menus are consistent: pork dumplings (steamed or fried); the same two soups (hot and sour, wonton); stir-fries listed by main ingredient, with a pepper icon or star indicating a meagre trace of chilli-flakes. Dishes over $10 are grouped under “chef’s specials”. There are modest variations: in Boston, takeaways often come with bread and feature a dark, molass-sweetened sauce; a Chine-Latino creole cuisine developed in upper Manhattan. But mostly you can, as at McDonald’s, order the same thing in Minneapolis as in Fort Lauderdale.
