atdm
史上最全面的服装基础图文对照表，建议收藏！坐稳了没？要开车了哦
一、成衣量度点及名称图示curt
二、领 Collar
1
领的款式(Collar Type)
A、上级领 (Top Collar)
a.尖领 (Point Collar)
b.直尖领 (Straight Point Collar)
c.英式领 (English Collar)
初吻主题曲d.一字领 (Spread Collar)
e.八字领 (Spread Collar)
f.领嘴钮领 (Button Down Collar)
g.暗领嘴钮领(1) 【Hidden Button Down Collar(1)】
h.暗领嘴钮领(2) Hidden Button Down Collar（2）
blackedi.斜插足领 (Dias Stay Collar)
j.直插足领 (Straight Stay Collar)
k.直夏威夷领 (Hawaii Collar)
l.假夏威夷领 (Mock Hawaii Collar)
m.三尖耳仔搭带领 (Inrted Point Tab Collar)
n.方形耳仔搭带领 (Square Tab Collar)
o.中国领假领 (Mandarin Collar or Mock Collar)
p.一片领（原身出下级） Piece Collar
注：假下级可间线，亦可不间。
注：上、下级领的间线有单、双线之分，及领底有间线和不间线之分。
B、下级领 Neckband
a.月光下级领 (Half Moon Neckband)
b.圆嘴下级领 (Round Tip Neckband)
c.方嘴下级领 (Square Tip Neckband)
d.普通间下级 (Regular Top-stitch Band)
e.兜咀间下级 (Full Top-stitch Band)
2
领的组成及部位名称(Parts with Name)
3
领各部位尺寸的度法(Method of Measuring Collar)
三、前幅 Body Front
1
前幅的组成及部位名称(Parts with Names)
2
筒的款式 (Placket Type)
A.暗筒 (Concealed Placket/Invisible Placket)
B.落贴明筒（有间单、双线之不同）
Placket with Lining (with Single Stitch or double)
C.双折筒（间边线或暗线）
Double Fold placket ( Edge Stitch or Concealed Stitch )
注：有及骨和无及骨之分 Overlock Safety or not
D.夹筒 (Medium Placket)
E.假反明筒 (Mock Placket)
F.假反暗筒 (Mock Concealed Placket)
G.拉钮子筒 (止口顶尽)
Button Placket without (Seam Allowance)
H.拉钮子筒 (止口3/8')
Button Placket with 3/8' Seam Allowance
I.夹暗线筒 Placket with Concealed Stitch
J.半胸三尖明筒 Visible Half Placket with Pointed Box
K.暗线半胸筒封三尖筒顶
Invisible Half Placket with Pointed Box
L.半胸平顶明筒 Visible Half Placket with Square Box
M.半胸双叠筒 Lapped Half Placket
N、暗线半胸筒封直筒顶
Invisible Half Pocket with Square Box
3
钮子的款式 Under Placket Type
A、拉3/8'钮子 under Placket with 3/8' Stitch （参照筒款中之 H 款做法）
B.双折钮子（止口顶尽） Double Fold under Placket without Seam Allowance （参照筒款中之G 款做法）
C.夹钮子 Set under Placket （参照筒款中之 D 款做法）
D.筒式钮子 Button Placket （参照筒款中之 B 款做法）
4
袋的款式 Pocket Type
A.袋的款式 Pocket Type
a、原身假反直袋口六角袋回针封袋角
Imitation Straight Pocket Hem Hex-angular Pocket with Rever Stitch
b、直袋口纵纹圆袋 Straight Pocket Hem Dias Round Pocket
c、原身假反三尖袋口圆袋间直角袋口 Imitation Pointed Pocket Hem Round Pocket with 3 Return Recangular Stitch
d、三尖袋口三尖袋间斜角袋口 Pointed Pocket Hem Pointed Pocket with 3 Return Triangular Stitch
e、单唇袋 Single Welted Pocket
f、双唇袋 Double Welted Pocket
g、工字褶袋 Box-pleat Pocket
h、打鼓袋（反工字褶袋） Inverted Box-pleat Pocket
i、插笔袋 Pocket with Pencil Slot
B、袋盖的款式 Pocket flaps Type
a、方袋盖纵纹 Square Pocket Flap dias
b、圆袋盖 Round Pocket Flap
c、六角袋盖 Hex-angular Pocket Flap
d、桃形袋盖 Pointed Center Round Corner Flap
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f、弧形袋盖 Arch Pocket Flap
g、三尖袋盖 Pointed Pocket Flap
5
前幅各部位尺寸的度法Method of Measuring Front Body
四、后幅 Body Back
1
后幅的组成及部位名称 Parts with Names
2
担干款式 Yoke Type
A.担干破中骨（驳担干） Slipt Yoke
B.三尖担干 Pointed Yoke
C.弧形担干 Arch Shape Yoke
D.波浪形担干 Wavy Yoke
3
poptang背褶款式 Back Pleats Type
A.工字褶耳仔（摄入1/4'，不得超出后幅)
Box Pleat With Locker Loop
B.反工字褶 Inverted Box Pleats
C.刀褶 Knife Pleats/Side pleats
4
后幅各部位尺寸的度法 Method of Measuring Body Back
五、袖 Sleeve
1
袖的组成及部位名称 Parts with Names
2
袖的款式 Sleeve Type
A.长袖后袖破骨（破骨袖）
Long Sleeve Split Back Sleeve(Split Sleeve)
B.中袖袖中开叉 Medium Sleeve Center Sleeve Slit
C.短袖 Short Sleeve
D.无袖拉夹圈捆条 Sleeveless Armhole Gange
F.牛角袖 Horn Sleeve
3
50音图
袖叉款式 Sleeve Slit Type
A.假介英，袖中分叉 Mock Cuff,Sleeve Center Slit
B.原身出袖口，后袖分中开袖叉
Self Cuff Showing,Back Sleeve Center Slit
C.原身出袖叉，叉顶回针横封 Self Slit,Top Rever Stitch
D.拉平顶大侧，加间边线，双线封侧顶
Flat Top Sleeve Placket，with Edge Stitch，Double Needle Square Box
E.原身出细侧，拉三尖大侧，单线封侧顶
Self Under Sleeve Placket，Set Pointer Sleeve Placket，Single Needle Pointed Box F.R侧 'R' Sleeve Placket
4
袖褶方向 Direction of Sleeve Pleats
A.折向大侧 Towards Sleeve Placket
B.折向侧骨 Towards Side Seam
5
袖各部位尺寸的度法 Method of Measuring Sleeve
六、介英 Cuff
1
介英的组成及部位名称 Parts with Names
2
介英款式 Cuff Type
A.方角介英面间1/4'单线 1/4'包朴线
Square Cuff with 1/4' Single Stitch Hem Cuff with 1/4'
B.圆角介英面间边线 1/2'包朴线
Round Cuff with Edge Stitch Hem Cuff with 1/2'
C.六角介英面间1/4'双线双钮门
Hexangular Cuff with 1/4' Double Stitch Double Button Hole
D.大介英绳结钮 French Cuff Strap Tie Button
3
介英各部位尺寸的度法 Method of Measuring Cuff
七、不同的车缝骨 Type of Seam
A.假双埋夹_ '——平针底 Felled Sideam -- Lockstitch
B.单针埋夹间_'——平针底 1N Sideam with_ ' Lockstitch
C.包婆仔骨 French Seam
D.双针埋夹_' 2N Side Seam with_'
E.三线及骨 3 Thread Overlock Safety
F.四线及骨 4 Thread Overlock Safety
G.五线及骨 5 Thread Overlock Safety
H.冚虾须线 Double Needle Coverstitch
八、一般车缝工序流程
1
杨梅部分 Sewing in YMB
A.领：Collar
上级领 Top Collar
a.(车插足领) (Stay Pocket or Stitch Stay Collar)
b.运上级领 Run Collar
c.修领尖反烫领 Trim Collar Point Turn Press Fall
d.烫领骨查对 Press Fall Inspection
e.间上级领 Topstitch Collar
remarkably
f.切领脚打中呃 Collar Edge Trimming Center Notching
下级领 Neckband
a、包下级朴 Neckband Lining Hem
上级领f 下级领a Top Collar Neck Band
g.落下级 Collar Band Setting
h.反烫下级修止口 Turn Press Neck Bank Trim Seam Allowance
i.间下级 Topstitch Neckband
j.打下级钮门 Band Button-holing
k.钉下级钮 Band Buttoning
l.切下级脚点领位 Trim Neckbank Notch Collar
B.前幅（男装左胸单袋为例） Body Front
左前幅 Left Front Body
a.切筒贴 Trim Front Placket Facing
b.拉筒 Set Placket or Top Center
袋 Pocketdivisions
a.烫袋口 Press Pocket Hem
b.车袋口 Stitch Pocket Hem
c.焗袋 Press Pocket
左前幅b 袋c Left Front Body b Pocket c
d.装袋 Set Pocket
右前幅 Right Front Body
a.拉钮子 Set Under Placket
b.车钮子注意唛 Set Right Front Label
d 右前幅b d Right Front Body b
e.修领窝 Trim Neckam
f.打钮门 Front Button-holing
g.钉钮 Front Buttoning
C.后幅 Body Back
a.驳担干 Split Yoke
b.车主唛 Stitch Main Label
c.打后幅褶落耳仔 Back Pleats Locker Loop
d.落担干 Set Yoke
e.烫修担干 Press and Trim Yoke
D.袖 Sleeve
a.拉细侧 Set Sleeve Placket
firstb.夹大侧封三尖 Set Slip to Slip Finish Sleeve Placket
c.打袖侧钮门 Sleeve Placket Button-holing
d.钉钮 Sleeve Placket Buttoning
E.介英 Cuff
a.包介英朴 Set Interlining to Cuff
b.运介英 Run Cuff
c.反介英 Turn Cuff
d.间介英 Topstitch Cuff
e.打介英钮门 Cuff Button-holing
f.钉介英钮 Cuff Buttoning
2
香港部分 Sewing in Hongkong
A.纳膊 Join Shoulder
B.上袖 Set Sleeve
C.埋夹 Clo Side or Clo Side Seam
D.上领 Set Collar
F.上介英 Set Cuff
